Zambujeira to Carrapateira

April 11, 2022

A day of up and down, good and bad, changes of plan that worked and some that didn't; all as we have come to expect when cycle touring.

Last night, planning the route snug under the duvet with bellies full of seafood and brimming with confidence, we decided that the 40km to Aljezur was not enough and that we would push on another 20km to Carrapateira. We woke to grey skies and the windows wet with rain, but the forecast called for clearing in the afternoon so we lingered over breakfast and left around 11am with the streets almost dry. What we hadn't considered was the wind; normally it blows from the north but today it was blowing hard from the south west, exactly where we were going. For the first hour we struggled to go 9km/h on the flats and with dark clouds threatening on the horizon, so we decided to skip the scenic, cliff-top route on muddy tracks and head inland to the highway. This worked for half an hour before the clouds opened up and we were cowering in the lee of an abandoned building taking shelter from the hard, blowing rain. It was going to be a long 60km.

Then, as quickly as it came, the rain was gone, patches of blue sky were getting bigger and we were cruising through the rolling hills. In a split-second decision, we turned off the N120 at Odeceixe to avoid traffic and ride through the charming little town; then we couldn't figure how to get back on route and ended up on a very steep track that we had to push up (but no traffic!). Aljezur was quaint and we found a lovely spot for a hearty lunch of rice with clams and shrimp, but agreed we had made the right choice not to stay. The last 20km seemed ever hillier but we were energized to power along the tree-lined roadway.

Tired by the time we checked in to the Carrapateira Lodge- which reminded us of the lodges in Nepal with its white and blue facade and simple furnishings- we headed straight to the market to buy food to cook supper in the communal kitchen. But then the sky was clearing so we decided to ride another 10km to watch the sunset at the cape. This was the best change of plan of the day as the cape is truly spectacular: steep cliffs with huge waves crashing in, impressive clouds and even a double rainbow. Ah, the serendipity of a day on the road. What will tomorrow bring?

Looking back at Zambujeira under clearing skies

As the clouds bust, we headed to this abandoned building only to find there was no roof, but no problem, it was blowing so hard the lee side was quite dry.

Razor clams and shrimp with rice to fuel the afternoon ride

Heading out to the Cape. Our first sighting of a Eurovelo sign!

Today's ride: 65 km (40 miles)
Total: 248 km (154 miles)

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Rachael AndersonGreat ride and photos!
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2 years ago

ann and steve maher-wearyThanks Rachel, as is yours. We may be in southern France in the fall and you guys keep extending our bucket list of places to visit.
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2 years ago

Kathleen WearyWow what a crazy day… your pictures are absolutely splendid… love to see the new phones coming to use.
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1 year ago

ann and steve maher-wearyOnly one new phone, that is one reason most of the shots are dad’s
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1 year ago