September 22, 2014
Oh, Oh, Pahoa
In the southeast corner of Hawaii is the region of Puna. We remember it as quite lush, with some very narrow roads through heavy forest. By the sea there is the Isaac Hale Beach Park, which has an interesting volcanically heated warm swimming pond, and a smaller warm "hot tub" hole in the ground.
Puna is generally the area in Hawaii where the back to the land, hippy, fringe elements find a congenial place. Sometimes you can visit with them selling their produce at the Hilo farmers' market.
So for this trip we wanted to be sure to allow time to cycle around Puna. We began the process of booking a little cabin (shack, really) at the Hedonisia eco-feminist eco-tourist community in Pahoa. Pahoa is the main (only) town in Puna, though there are a number of residential subdivisions.
On a coming page, we will explain our frustration with the camping situation on the Island. As part of that I wrote to the "mayor", and so far just have a "we're working on a reply" sort of reply. So I went online to see just who this mayor really is and what he has been doing lately. What I found out is that what he has been doing is desperately planning for the coming loss of the main road in Puna, the health implications of sulphuric gases, and the evacuation of Pahoa. All this is due to an eruption of Kilauea from the Pu'U O'o vent and the subsequent flow of lava straight for Pahoa!
The lava flow has speeded up and slowed down since June, but it shows no signs of stopping. Right now the Volcano Observatory/ US Geological Service predicts it will reach Pahoa in nine days.
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Because we are now somewhat involved, it has been fascinating, through Youtube, to attend some of the many public information meetings that have been held in Pahoa. We have listened to the concerns of the residents and merchants, and observed the mayor - who they call Mayor Billie - attempting to explain what is being done, and what impediments exist, mainly in terms of land ownership by the State, various federal departments, and private interests, all on the topic of building escape routes.
A few residents have asked about the possibilities of diverting the lava, mentioning "dynamite" and "smart bombs". This brought forward an interesting explanation of why not, founded on one strong American cultural trait and one Hawaiian cultural trait. The American trait was fear of liability. Diversion could lead to liability as to where the lava would end up after a diversion effort. The Hawaiian trait was the notion that the volcano is sacred, that Pele - the volcano goddess - will do what she wants, and that humans should not muck with her. When someone in the room questioned that some old belief of a dying people could put real communities at risk of destruction, there was no support for that person at all. Interestingly no one in the meeting even began to question the power of the goddess of Liability.
Again, because of the internet, we have been able to follow this slow motion train wreck by watching local TV reports. Since for most of us, TV is our reality, watching this on TV makes it really real.
You can try looking at this link , though no doubt TV stations do not keep current reports up for long.
We will continue to follow this from afar, and will post some updates on this page. Of course, when we get there - depending on safety - we will go check it out in person.
Flash: September 27, the lava flow has somewhat stalled, 2 miles from Pahoa. Lava is still flowing, but in some sort of side channel. The Volcano Observatory, in what seems like a bit of a snit, says it will not issue further forecasts about when the lava could hit Pahoa. See here for a report
Apparently we are not the only outsiders who have noted the Pahoa situation. This report describes how Pahoa has become something of a boom town, as the curious,volcano researchers, and those wanting one last Pahoa experience crowd into the town.
Supplement: Volcanoes seem to have entered the psyches of Avi and Violet. Look at this recent drawing by Avi:
Actually the drawing is just part of an unrelated narrative. It's cute, though. You will enjoy it:
October 15 Lava Report
The lava flow is now 1 km from Apa'a Street (Transfer Station - Garbage Dump), but it is not flowing all that fast. Although in an apparent snit the Volcano Observatory has stopped issuing forecasts about when the lava would reach Pahoa, they now seem to be saying that it will cross Apa'a Street by November 1.
Look at this photo. Talk about being in the crosshairs!
October 26: We have been kind of asleep for a couple of days, but Anthony Burgess, who is cycling around Hawaii and is in Hilo right now has alerted us that the lava has just crossed Apa'a Street, very near Pahoa town.
You can see one of the current reports:
Here is a map that gives a very good idea of where the lava is at. Apa'a Street is the curved black line just at the lava front. The blue lines indicate lines of possible flow, so it seems after Pahoa, Hawaiian Estates could be next.
Horror Movie
A horror movie does not have to be fast moving to generate interest. Rather, a slow moving threat can be scariest of all. The lava flow is certainly in that category. Each day we tune in to see the latest slow but threatening advance. Now the story has made it to the national media, even in sleepy Canada, and friends are calling to comment on the situation.
By the time we reach Puna, the flow will be past Pahoa, but probably still on its way to the sea. Perhaps we will cycle from the Hilo side for a look at it. Strangely, were were in Hawaii in 1988, the time of a Kalapana lava flow. Approaching on Chain of Craters Road from the National Park side, we were stopped by road blocks. But we saw helicopters hovering over the flow. So we went back to Volcano Town and rented a helicopter. From the air, we saw that there were no roadblocks on the Pahoa side. So we drove around that way, and found that despite many warning signs, we could just walk up onto the slightly cooled lava. We could see red about a foot down under our feet, though. Dodie slightly melted her boot soles. Don't worry kids, we were young and foolish forty year olds then. Our lava walking days are over. Now we are crazy guys on bikes!
How About This Gefahr?
As we cycled through Germany we were struck by the variety of warning signs, for various dangers, or Gefahrs. Many were farfetched. But how about this Hawaiian one? They seems to have a good point!
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