To Merida, Spain

July 8, 2023

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After serious discussion about our last minute route change (smaller roads, more climbing), Jacinto made a heroic effort to leave early. Target time was 7 AM, we were gone at 7:30. He was freezing! Freezing! It was 60 degrees, but for the guy who grew up in Mexico - freezing. Jacinto said it was so cold that he couldn't stand up to pedal for three hours. That's darn cold. Personally, I appreciated the cool shade on the climbs. I would guess that all of our climbing today was in the 3-4% grade range. Sometimes in the granny gear, sometimes not. It was sustainable, but slow. I was hopeful at the top of the first climb. After our steep finish yesterday, when my quads were quivering, I wasn't sure how my legs would react to the continued climbing today. I'm happy to report that the gentle grades were kind.

The best part of my day was stopping at the top of the biggest climb to catch my breath, and looking up to see a castle! We had no idea the castle of Salvatierra de los Barros existed. Google says it is privately owned. How would you like to own a castle? It was built in 1190.

Jacinto mostly rode behind me today. I thought that it was because he was worried how I would do. Later he told me, in an elevated tone of voice, that it was because he wasn't capable of standing up from the cold and had to ride slowly.

The first part of our day was through the mountains. The ground was dry and barren. We saw a few small cattle herds, and several places with pigs. At mile 26, suddenly we were out of the mountains and onto the plains. There was water! Green things were growing everywhere. We saw miles and miles of vineyards. This was a good day to see a variety of terrain. We went through, or passed, several small towns. They all had tall churches.

The miles were ticking away nicely. The day had warmed up, but not too much for me. We had agreed to stop for ice when we had a chance. Our first opportunity was early in the day, we didn't want ice yet. We stopped at mile 38 in Los Barros for a cold drink and ice. That was just what I needed to get me the rest of the way to town. I was pleased with my performance today. I think a piece of it is that I mixed a bottle of electrolytes from my meager supply. Maybe I'm finally getting stronger from all of this mountain climbing.

When we were changing the route last night, the approach to Merida was a point of discussion. RWGPS had me come in from the south, using a chunk of dirt road. Jacinto uses a Hammerhead Karoo for mapping. It had us following the truck route through all sorts of round abouts, on the north side of the highway. I have thought to myself several times that it's been helpful we have round abouts in our area and know how to navigate them. Even though I changed my route to match Jacinto's, I still got lost while listening to RWGPS and riding behind Jacinto. He asked me how I could get lost. I asked if he was really surprised. I didn't get too lost, but it took a phone call to get us back together.

Jacinto was careful that I was close behind him the rest of the way. Our apartment is right downtown, in the middle of everything. I'm amazed how little traffic there was, and how patient the drivers were. Our bikes are in a storage area downstairs, and we have a two bed/two bath apartment upstairs. Jacinto has claimed one bathroom, I have the other. We are going to have to make a list of places to visit tomorrow. There is plenty to see in Merida. I did find it odd that we couldn't see anything on the approach, but there are too many tall, new buildings in town to see the points of interest.

Jacinto has been missing jalapeños and corn tortillas. He was excited to see there's a Mexican restaurant nearby. We went there for a late lunch. It was bland, and not even TexMex good. We don't have to worry about making a return trip there.

I'm not setting an alarm clock for the morning. That's my favorite day off non activity!

It was another one big pillow kind of night. We were wishing for two small pillows, but only had one.

After we were spit out on the plains, it was vineyards for miles and miles.

If you look carefully, you can see the road snaking back up the mountain behind me.

We were on the big road very briefly. There was a view of the mountain exit.

I stopped at the top of the big climb for the day to catch my breath. When I recovered enough to look around, there was a castle! It was one of my best moments of the trip.

Aren’t sunflowers supposed to face the sun? These were hiding.

Canal El Lobon brought verdant life to the valley.

Look closely. Doesn’t everyone keep their deodorant on the mantle place?

We have taken over this deluxe apartment for two days. Jacinto was complaining about making the arrangements to meet the owner to get in. After we were in, he was pleased we aren’t in a hotel room.

Today's ride: 60 miles (97 km)
Total: 875 miles (1,408 km)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	6
Comment on this entry	Comment	8

Scott AndersonWhatever else you do in Merida, don’t miss the old bridge!
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9 months ago

Rachael AndersonYou’ve really earned a day off, enjoy it!!
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9 months ago

Kelly IniguezTo Scott AndersonRWGPS took us over the old bridge, we followed Jacinto’s route, which took us over the new bridge. We could SEE the old bridge, but there was too much traffic to stop for a photo. After we were actually on the bridge, it seemed like the center area was for cyclists and pedestrians, but we couldn’t get there. Crossing the bridge was fine, the drivers are polite. But they might not have been if I’d stopped!

We are planning for the Roman Museum today. Inside and hopefully cool. Have you visited it?
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9 months ago

marilyn swettWe had to laugh at your review of the Mexican Restaurant! It's kind of like trying to get good Mexican food in the mid-west - probably not going to happen! But I would try some paella if it's offered. I plan to find some when we are in Barcelona.
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9 months ago

Kelly IniguezTo marilyn swettWe tried paella in Madrid. IDK if it was good or not. We did like the other things we ordered at that restaurant. We didn’t like paella enough to order it again. I did get Spain’s version of a tortilla, which is an egg and potato dish, although sometimes it has shrimp and asparagus. That hasn’t been available everywhere.

Salted cod is a big Portuguese dish, but it didn’t sound appealing to me, so I didn’t order it.

I told Jacinto this morning that a good old fashioned American breakfast sounded great. I’d even go to Denny’s!
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9 months ago

Kathleen ClassenI am catching up on your journal very late in the game. I was going to comment at the very end about how much I am enjoying it, but your comment about Denny’s made me laugh out loud. I know the feeling. We found Spain in particular to be a challenge last year because they eat dinner about the time we go to bed! Portugal was much better for us and we are slouches in the morning so are always able to take advantage of the breakfast buffet. Back to my reading.
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8 months ago

Kelly IniguezTo Kathleen ClassenI do enjoy a more relaxed start to the day also. I look forward to Jacinto retiring, so we can tour during a friendlier weather season. Unfortunately, I don't think that will be any time soon.

Obtaining food continued to be an issue for the entire trip. I did read a Spaniard's comment somewhere about 'how can anyone bicycle on a full stomach'. I stand by my comment on, how can you ride more than ten miles on a croissant!
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8 months ago

Kathleen ClassenTo Kelly IniguezWe are going back to Spain in mid September. We feel lucky to be retired and able to go then. I have finished your journal now and really enjoyed it. In Spain and Portugal last year we had some heat (and some surprise rain) but nothing like the temperatures you experienced. That makes things very tough. Loved your ice stories. Aren’t the Spanish ice cubes something? I really enjoyed your journal. Thank you for your time and effort writing it.
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8 months ago