Day 49 - Ainsa to El Pont du Suert - Gorging in France ...Then Basquing in the Pyrenees - 2023

June 5, 2023

Day 49 - Ainsa to El Pont du Suert

Anothern ’On The Fly’ Route Change

We had another day where we had to implement real-time route changes … not always a great thing when you’re in mountainous terrain. Heading down one valley as opposed to another can get you far far away from your intended destination. No worries though, it all worked out today.

Before I regale you with the fine details of our day, I want to give a shout-out to the Dos Rios hotel in Ainsa. If you’re a biker, either touring, road or mtb, this is the place for you. It’s in a modern building just outside the walls of the old town on the same level as the highway into town (no pushing up steep cobbled streets). It has one of the best bike rooms I’ve seen (pic was in yesterday’s post),the rooms are large with a kitchenette, ample USB and electric outlets and a real drying rack. Best of all …. The breakfast is full on … yoghurt, muesli, cereal, bread, pastries, cheese, charcuterie, fruit, eggs (scrambled or fried) bacon, sausage, juice, coffee, milk. If you’re a Brit you might be disappointed with the lack of baked beans and black pudding, but everyone else should be satisfied.

I think you get the drift that we liked the place. Sometimes modern convenience and things that work beats ‘old world charm’. That’s Dos Rios.

Small print disclaimer .. I have no financial interest in this establishment nor do I know the people who own it … but I think they own a bike or two.

Okay, that took longer than I thought. So what happened today?

This was going to be probably the biggest day of the tour, and one of the most interesting with a couple of cols and the amazing looking Èsera gorge just north of Campo. Following the TA route along the N260 would result in 85 km’s and close to 1800 m of climbing, more than our St Pierre d’Entremont day way back in April (which just about did me in). We now have almost 40 biking days under our (slightly smaller) belts now though, so we were confident that it would be a great day.

We got a pretty early start, with a great breakfast in us, under once again perfect morning riding conditions. We had a good 7 km flat warm up and then started the first climb, 13 km’s and 500 m elevation gain. The N260 at this point was a fairly large highway with three full lanes and good shoulders on both sides. On the uphills there were two traffic lanes so all the vehicle traffic, and there was actually very little, moved over and gave us a full lane of separation. The grade averaged out at about 4% but there were a couple of km long sections of 8%. We topped out at Col Foradada (1020 m) got the pic and then started a very fun and fast downhill run to the Campo tunnel. This side of the col had the same road conditions, wide perfectly paved traffic lanes with shoulders, and very light traffic. There were no switchbacks or sharp turns so it was a pretty fast run, and the views were magnificent.

We crossed the Èsera river and almost immediately entered the 700 m long Campo tunnel which popped out at, you guessed it … Campo!

From here the TA route continued north along the Esera river through an amazing gorge, one that looked like it would rival the Bourne or Nan gorges in the Vercors. The Andersons even had a wonderful picnic lunch while in the gorge and we were hoping to have the same. So far the weather was cooperating and we were getting excited about what lay before us.

The clouds started to darken, both figuratively and literally as we approached the roundabout on the outskirts of Campo. The N260 goes straight through the roundabout to Campo and then through the Esrera gorge through to Castejon de Sos.

The road sign before the roundabout had an arrow pointing forward with N20 and Camp, and then a whole bunch of black plastic wrap covering what was a bunch of other writing. There were other, what looked like temporary, signs that seemed to indicate that all other traffic had to turn right into the HUV-9601 road. Hmmm.

We continued on into Campo where we thought we’d get a cold drink and figure out what was up with the roads. We soon found a nice little bar/cafe, got our cold fizzy water and pineapple juice (it’s becoming a ‘thing’ for us in Spain) and also got the confirmation that the N260 was indeed closed after Campo. There would be no Esera gorge or Col de Fada (1470 m) for us.

While we were having our cold drink we sparked up RWGPS and figure out how we were going to get to el Pont de Suert via the HUV-9601. It turns out it was pretty straight forward, and would shave about 7 km’s and more than 100 m of climbing off the TA route. We were still a little bummed out though as the Esera had been something we were really looking forward to.

There’s nothing we could do about it though, so we set off on the new route. The HUV-9601 was a pretty good sized road, similar to the N-260 as we left Ainsa, and the traffic was still pretty light. We had two more climbs in front of us, one of 10 km and 400 m elevation, and the big one, 15 km and almost 600 m where we would top out at Puerto de Bonansa, 1380 m.

The country side was pretty wide open with beautiful views in all directions … but wasn’t an amazing gorge. We dutifully pedalled away and gained our elevation though. Just before we topped out the first climb, the road crossed a small gorge on the Barranco de la Espluga, and there we two rock climbers in action right beside the bridge. That was pretty cool …. but it wasn’t an amazing gorge.

Just after we topped out we pulled into a roadside turnout for our now standard ‘K wraps’ - guacamole this time with red peppers and the last of our dried sausage. The pullout even had cement ledges that drainage culverts went through, making very convenient seats and providing a very nice view on the mountain to the east ….. but it wasn’t a stream with trout rising to catch flies like the Anderson’s had, in an amazing gorge.

A nice downhill led us into a merger with the A1605 and we started the 15 km climb up the Isebena river to Puerto de Bonansa. It was very pretty, and a few km’s into the moderate climb we came to a Tourist information booth that was completely manned by cats. No Kidding.

That seemed to change our fortunes, as we rounded the next corner …. and entered an amazing gorge!

Yes, the next 8 km’s or so as we climbed up the Isebena were in a tight, steep gorge with tunnels, waterfalls and next to nobody but us in it!

We got our gorge, and the downhill from the top of Bonansa down to el Pont de Suert was super fun. There’s no way we could feel sorry for ourselves and the route change seemed to prove the laws of Pyrenees touring ….there are no bad routes!

We found our simple but very nice lodging (a Chambre d’Hôte for lack of a spanish term) got cleaned up and had a good but simple dinner in the only restaurant open in town (it was Monday).

Another good day was in the books.

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SOTD - Geronimo’s Free, Ted Sirota’s Rebel Souls

An obscure (based on zero YouTube comments!) jazz number that I really like. Starts out nice and structured then gets messy and an even a bit morose with the muted trombone (the point in the ride where we’re bummed out about the road closure), then it picks up and finishes with a flourish (as we find out that the detour is still a great ride!). Just like today, enjoy!

Heading off from the great bike focused Hotel Dos Rios in Ainsa. I seem to be catching K scowling today … need to check my photos before I move on!

One last look back at Ainsa. Well worth a visit here. It’s a very beautiful town with great cycling of all types in the area.

Right out of the gate we have the short Aro tunnel!

The climb up to Foradada was very good, great road and decent grades. It was going to be a long day with lots of climbing. I was restrained in stopping for pic’s so none of the climb. Conditions were spectacular though and it was starting to heat up

Screaming decent down Foradada towards Campo. Great road with no sharp turns … lay off the brakes and let the bike run!

Next up, the Campo tunnel. Very well lit and very light traffic

Hmmm, this looks like a change of plan is coming up. We want the N260 ‘past’ Campo, and all those places are blacked out!

So here’s to making up a new route on the fly! Nice cold bubbly water with pineapple juice.

So off we go into the gathering clouds on the HUV-9601. Nice, but ….

Just about topped out our first climb on the new route and about to cross a small gorge.

With climbers in action on it. They were only a few meters away from the bridge, didn’t need to zoom in too much to get this shot.

First climb topped out in nice alpine valley environment. Threatening to rain but it was hanging off.

Not the most salubrious lunch spot, but the cement ledge over the culverts made for a comfortable and convenient seat. Make do with what you’ve got. And the lunch was good! This is another one of ‘those shots’ where I thought K was smiling … it’s too good to leave out though!

Another straightforward downhill run before we start the big climb of the day.

The whole area had these gravel ridges everywhere. Almost look like glacial moraines but they were pretty small for that.

Final run down to our intersection with the A1605 and the climb up the Isebena river to Puerto de Bonansa. It’s pretty, but it’s not a gorge.

Spanish Parks have a new staffing policy. These guys didn’t offer too much information though.

Hey, what’s this … a tunnel leading into a gorge!

A really cool gorge - and here’s a ‘Where’s Waldo’ shot

Really cool! The complexion of this ride has changed considerably. There’s an on and off light drizzle too that adds character to this tight gorge.

Just about topped out. This was another back-loaded climb with the last few km’s a pretty consistent 8-10%

Beautiful lush green tight valleys in all directions

Topped out 100 m lower than the original planned route, but still a good day of climbing and a great set up for a long down hill into el Pont de Suert

And here we go! It was a super fun ride down, mostly through tight terrain like this. Wheee!

There are no bad days in the Pyrenees! Good night from Suert

Today's ride: 78 km (48 miles)
Total: 2,070 km (1,285 miles)

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ann and steve maher-wearyThe Pyrenees are amazing to cycle !
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11 months ago

Kirsten KaarsooTo ann and steve maher-wearyThey sure are. The Alps just seemed to over shadow them in my mind, but after being here I keep wondering why it has taken me so long to start exploring them!
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11 months ago

Lisa BaptieSo fun, love it when things work out!
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11 months ago