Day 48 - Torla Ordesa to Ainsa - Gorging in France ...Then Basquing in the Pyrenees - 2023 - CycleBlaze

June 4, 2023

Day 48 - Torla Ordesa to Ainsa

Expect the Unexpected

Today’s ride didn’t turn out as planned. It’s hard to imagine though that the planned ride would have been better than what we actually rode today.  We’re coming to the conclusion that you can more or less pick any white or yellow road on the map, and also most any town as a destination and you will have a wonderful time.

We got off to a pretty early start even given the 8:30 breakfast at the hotel (very nice place but more aligned to the car touring folk). We were motivate to get out early as once again the weather forecast showed great weather until the early afternoon and then deteriorating to rain showers, just like every other day.

The planned ride was a short downhill into Broto, the pretty town we were looking down on two days ago when we rode into Torla, with a short excursion to see the Broto waterfall, and then our only climb of day. Just after Broto we would turn off the N-260a and start climbing on the HU-631 to Peurto de Fanlo, a 10 km 580 m climb with an average grade of 4 - 5%. This would be our only climb of the day and we’d then have a 30 km(ish) downhill run to Ainsa.

Everything was working to plan; the waterfall was beautiful, the climb was steady but mostly in the trees with a consistent moderate grade, perfect. We topped out at 1370 m and took the requisite col shots, had a bite to eat, and then started down into the amazing looking canyon that would spit us out about 20 km’s later at Escalona where we’d have a further 10 km run downhill into Ainsa.

As per recent form, and the forecast, we could see clouds gathering behind us and rain showers happening, but the view to the south, the direction we were heading was still mostly blue and beautiful. All was good in the world.

As we were descending into the narrowing canyon, K and I were discussing the  RWGPS elevation profile. Once again there was a very sharp drop followed by a very sharp rise, adding about 200 m of elevation gain. We had more or less convinced ourselves that this in reality would turn out to be a bridge crossing the canyon and then the road would enter a tunnel, and we would find out in just a few km’s if our deductions were correct.

We never got a chance to test our hypothesis.

A  minute or so after we convinced ourselves that this would be the case we came up to a viewpoint turn out and an intersection with an even smaller unnumbered road. There were a couple of park ‘rangers’ (don’t know what they are called in Spain) here also …. And a barricade across the road that we were on and planning to continue on.

It was pretty clear that the road was closed and that all traffic, and there actually was some today, mostly motor bikes, was being diverted onto the small unnumbered road. This road went sharply uphill away from the lovely canyon we were going to ride down, and continued climbing for another 250 m before descending down another valley to Escalona, adding another 6 km’s of distance on top of the 250 m of climbing.

The canyon that we were no longer going to be riding down looked sensational, and neither one of us were thrilled with an additional 250 m of climbing, but there was no alternative.

So, we started climbing, again. It was a pretty easy climb and when we topped out at 1265 m there was a lovely bar/restaurant where we grabbed a nice salad and cold drink for lunch. Then we headed down south through an amazing valley. 

Who knows if the canyon would have been better ….  Maybe we’ll come back again to ride it and see, but what we rode was fantastic and the detour resulted in another road-meet up with Rebecca and Ovid from Colorado …. And we managed to outrun the rain too!

We pulled into Ainsa in mid afternoon and found our hotel, Apartahotel dos Rios at the bottom of Ainsa along the river … and it’s a great place that caters to the very large number of mountain bikers in this area.

We got cleaned up and set of to check out this incredibly beautiful old walled city, and had the place pretty much to ourselves until 8 pm, when the place started to fill up with the dinner crowd, and it still wasn’t crowded. 

For the first time in ages we ate outside, a simple salad and paella at one of the restaurants in the main square, and just soaked in on how great a day it was.

Tomorrow is going to be the biggest climb day of the tour, so it was a light dinner, and a small bottle of wine, and an early night. And it still not raining yet!

SOTD - In and Out, Beth Ditto.

It’s a great song, and when we were running around very well the appointed apartment/hotel room, this song was playing and we both started singing along together. Good enough for SOTD!

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Heading off from Hotel Abetos in Torla. Very nice place to spend a couple of days.
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And another look at Broto, this time a morning view. Still beautiful.
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Curious goat while on our way to see the waterfall just west of Broto
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Karin KaarsooNeat shadow on his face!
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10 months ago
…. And the waterfall …. Very nice. It looks like they have a via ferrata here as we saw a number of folks heading this way with climbing harnesses, and not much else
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Just love the geometric shape of these sedimentary layers (limestone I presume). These are all natural
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starting our climb of the day … or so we thought. The first time we’ve seen the km by km signs in Spain. They are ubiquitous on the climbs in France
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K was getting a bit dismayed when she saw this. It had been a very gradual climb so far, almost non existent. This was going to be a back loaded climb.
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Yep, stiffened up for the last section, still pretty reasonable climbing though. All of it was on shaded tree lined road. Not much for views but cool. There were quite a number of switchbacks from this point to the col summit
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It opened up out of the trees in the last km before the summit allowing some views
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At the col summit, the sun is shining and it’s downhill from here. Stunning countryside.
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ann and steve maher-wearyBeautiful countryside
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11 months ago
K doing her duty at the official col sign
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Kirsten KaarsooTo ann and steve maher-wearyThanks.
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11 months ago
Jacquie GaudetI also like the reminders of the 1.5 metre passing distance. I wish we had that in BC!
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10 months ago
Kirsten KaarsooTo Jacquie GaudetYes. They have them on most of the roads we have been riding on. I will stop and take a photo next one I see. But they are often quite big!
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10 months ago
down we go, off to Ainsa through a cool looking canyon
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Looking back on the village of Fanlo. Dark clouds building to the north
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But it still looks great to the south where we’re headed
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Until we hit this. The road is barricaded just as we’re about to enter the narrow canyon section. No chance of getting around this as there are three park rangers here ensuring everyone takes the detour … the road on the right that’s heading uphill!
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About 20 minutes of climbing later we’re looking down on where we thought we were going to be riding
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…. And up at where we are actually riding !!!
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It was still great riding and we were being circled by a Griffon Vulture
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One more look back to the planned route
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Zooming in on the road we see at least one hiker got through
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One last look down the canyon that was not meant to be.
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We were getting amazing views of the surrounding mountains though. This one which I believe is Sestral Baxo (2074 m) reminded us of Castle Mountain in Banff
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And this classic thrust fault peak which I believe is Mondoto Sur (1944 m) looks like Mount Rundle, the mountain that separates Canmore and Banff townsites
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while we were taking these photos we met up with Rebecca and Ovid, a couple from Colorado who were driving from Bilbao to Barcelona and hiking along the way. Their plan for the day was changed due to the road closure as well.
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… and hey kindly took a picture of us for the blog. Thanks!
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When we topped out at Col de Vio, there was a really nice bar / restaurant where we grabbed a light lunch
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Good thing K has her back to the black clouds that are gathering! Are we going to be able to outrun them today?
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Starting our final decent for real … k got sight of the clouds and was tempted to preemptively put on her rain coat.
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But it still looked great to the south where we were heading
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Very cool village of Buerba with some old farm ruins a few km’s after the start of our descent
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Looking back on Buerba. Beautiful country! Every day continues to amaze us
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Amazing riding along ridge tops
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Views east towards the main peaks of the Pyrenees and the French border.
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Looking down onto Escalona with La Tuca (2268 m) towering behind
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K looking back north with some consternation … put the camera away and lets get moving!
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And she’s off … a fairly easy ‘where’s Waldo’ for this one. I decided to hang back and keep the camera out. It still looks great to the south!
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Love this shot of this series of peaks shrouded in clouds.
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Took this one to capture the cloud formations. Looks like a wispy ribbon tying together two cumulus clouds
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Finally in Ainsa. The bike room of the Hotel Dos Rios. Great place for cyclists.
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Up into the very beautiful Old Town. Still very quiet at 7:30. You can get a drink, but no food yet!
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We’re the first ones sitting down right at 8, and it starts to gradually fill up. Good basic dinner of salad and paella
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Bell tower on the church. All of the buildings are remarkably well preserved.
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The old town towers above the valley below
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Rain clouds now in the east …
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… and in the south, heading this way. Time to get a move on to the hotel
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Last look at the Old Town of Ainsa
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Last look at the Old Town of Ainsa
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Karin KaarsooI thought the last photo was the last look!
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10 months ago
Kirsten KaarsooTo Karin KaarsooCut a paste captions when you’re tired!!!!lol
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10 months ago
That’s it. Another great day of touring in Spain! Good night.
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Today's ride: 58 km (36 miles)
Total: 1,992 km (1,237 miles)

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Comment on this entry Comment 4
Scott AndersonHey, you were lucky! The detour forced you onto the best road, the same one we took.
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11 months ago
Rachael AndersonWow, that’s a lot of climbing!
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11 months ago
Lisa BaptieI’m already planning to our family trip, it’s just mind boggling 🤩
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11 months ago
Lyle McLeodTo Lisa BaptieThe Pyrenees are awesome. Hiking, climbing, mountain biking (lots!), rafting, kayaking… it’s all here and very accessible. Campgrounds everywhere and it’s not crowded at all (at least in early June). I’m sure the French side is the same.
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10 months ago