MOJAVE DESERT NATIONAL PRESERVE: Where I Spent Most of the Day Biking, Hiking, and Coughing

March 1, 2018

I figured if I wanted to experience the very essence of the Mojave Desert, there could be no better place to do it than in a place designated as a "national preserve." Ever since I started planning this trip, I've been looking forward to this segment. I expect it to be one of the highlights.

And so, I aimed The Reckless Mr. Bing Bong southward into California, trying to ignore the 18 m.p.h. headwind and my lingering chest cold. There was a climb of a few miles before I reached the exit to the preserve and then I enjoyed a long, fast descent with a crosswind. Next, I took a very quiet paved road toward Ivanpah, followed by a dirt road toward some remote place where I could get off the bike and do some desert hiking.

California was less than a mile from my starting point in Primm.

This is part of the long downhill section I mentioned.

I was feeling pretty good, despite the cough, and enjoyed wandering around among the desert plant life and the barren landscape. I still had hopes of maybe spotting a coyote or a lizard or a snake. I didn't see any of those things but, still, the place was beautiful in its desperate loneliness.

I started seeing a lot of these. At the risk of making a fool of myself, I think it's a cholla.

If there is such a thing as the symbol of the Mojave Desert, it would have to be the majestic Joshua Tree. I think it is my favorite tree (along with the saguaro) even though neither one of them are trees, technically speaking.

Back on the main road, I came across this dry lake. It is used for wind sailing and other non-motorized sports. I should have opened the gate and ridden my non-motorized bike across it.

My first desert wildlife sighting--a couple of ravens. They were waiting for me to pass so they could go back to feeding on my second wildlife sighting--a small coyote that had been killed by a car. Out of respect for the coyote, I didn't photograph that animal.

I stopped at the town of Nipton and ate a couple spoonfuls of peanut butter and a few Fig Newtons at a roadside picnic table. Again, I had been planning to spend a night camping in the middle of the desert, but as I ate I realized the wind speed had picked up considerably and it was downright cold. I made the decision to continue on to the town of Searchlight, where I hoped I could try to shake this cold in a motel room.

The entire business district of Nipton, California.

A desert oasis. Looking back at Nipton from a mile away.

A FOREST of Joshua Trees and, unlike forests in Minnesota, they don't block the view.

My home state of Minnesota does not have any 10-mile, 2100' climbs, so the road out of Nipton presented a bit of a challenge for a guy who hasn't been able to do any serious biking for a couple of months. You know, snow, below zero temperatures, etc. But I'm still a tough guy, so I pedaled away.

About 3/4 of the way up I started feeling nauseous. I think it had to do more with my ailment than with the difficulty of the climb, but I had to get off my bike. I ran down into a ditch, bent over, and started hacking and retching. Nothing came out except saliva.

I decided I should probably find a place to camp as soon as possible. I veered off on a dirt road and I even started unloading my tent and gear, but suddenly I felt great again. I convinced myself that I could make it to Searchlight and that would be much better for my health.

The place where I parked my bike so I could run into the ditch and heave my guts out.

I zipped up the last part of the climb, went over the pass, and was excited for the next ten miles--a long descent all the way to Searchlight. Unfortunately, the wind was a factor once again. It was noticeably colder on the east side of the mountain range and the wind blew into my face, giving me a runny nose and a sinus headache to go with my continuous coughing. The wind also prevented me from picking up much speed.

The beginning of the long downhill run into Searchlight.

I was terribly exhausted when I got to town. I checked into a small motel, turned on the TV, and promptly fell asleep at about 5:00 p.m. I didn't wake up again until 2:00 a.m.

Today's ride: 44 miles (71 km)
Total: 106 miles (171 km)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	5
Comment on this entry	Comment	2

Scott AndersonI especially enjoyed this entry. We drove across the Reserve on our way from Death Valley to Joshua Tree, and stopped at Nipton. I’ve always wanted to go back and bike there.
Reply to this comment
5 years ago

Gregory GarceauTo Scott AndersonI didn't know it at the time, but the entire town of Nipton was bought by a guy who owns a marijuana-growing company. I did notice it had sort of a hippy vibe to it. And its setting in that valley is so awesome.
Reply to this comment
5 years ago