September 16, 2021
Ducey to Mont Saint-Michel
We did it! We officially reached the end of the Veloscenie. Signs told us that our destination was only 19km away, but Komoot showed 28km. Another sign further on also said 19km, so I put my trust in the phone.
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I saw no logic in the way the Veloscenie/EV4 meanders during this last little jaunt near the tidelands. While cruising along our first "shortcut", we happened across a German war cemetery. I've always felt that Normandy was best left to those Americans who had either fought here or were history buffs. I'm wrong about that. This area has so much more to offer than modern military history. But here we were, in a place I reckon not too many Americans visit. We read the names of soldiers who, although they were collectively responsible for carrying out the occupation of France, could be seen individually as victims, cogs in a war machine that was not of their making. I'm sure some of them were heartless in what they did, and I'm sure many of them believed in the pathetic goals they fought for, but they were still humans. They had families who worried about them and whom they missed. They had hopes and dreams that had nothing to do with the will of the state. They were mostly common people, caught up in the fervor of the moment, or who really didn't have a stake in the outcome at all, but were simply there because they chose or were chosen to serve. It's a reminder that nationalism can be a terribly powerful and destructive force. Decent people can be convinced to do hateful things. I believe that this history is in the process of repeating itself, and I feel hopeless to stop it. I left the cemetery with these thoughts in mind, and it made me very sad.
Anyway... we arrived at our chosen campground at 11:30, where they were happy to give us a pitch and set up our tent early.
There were only a couple of glitches. One, we ran out of fuel, which led to a lukewarm cup of morning coffee. Second, we didn't pass any markets on the way here. We solved both problems by biking 5km down the road to the Carrefour (again, you say?). Once returned, we wolfed down our lunch and set out for Le Mont. Or whatever the locals call it.
We were able to ride right up to the entrance, unlike all those suckers walking or bussing it across the tidal flats. This is a pilot project they've got going. Who knows whether they'll continue to allow it in the future. Carpe diem! It was fairly crowded, mostly with schoolkids on field trips, but as big tourist attractions go, it wasn't too bad. We admired the view, checked out the abbey, and walked the gauntlet of tourist shops on the way out. We ascended and descended a lot of stone steps. It's just stone stone stone wherever you go. After a while it starts to creep into your psyche, and you start to think maybe spending a millenium or two as a wall or a statue or a stair step would be pretty fun.
If all goes well, we're off to St. Malo tomorrow. We don't know the first thing about it, but people say it's pretty nice. It's also supposed to be sunny again. Looking forward to it!
Today's ride: 45 km (28 miles)
Total: 569 km (353 miles)
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2 years ago
2 years ago
Your comments about Normandy are 100% on target, and mostly the trip continues to look and sound great. Carpe everything
2 years ago