Day 3: Prachuap Khiri Khan - Ban Krut - Frankie goes to.....the South of Thailand (2018)

October 24, 2018 to October 28, 2018

Day 3: Prachuap Khiri Khan - Ban Krut

Mixed emotions last night. I do admire the sound of tropical rain hammering down on the corrugated roofs. Very relaxing and better than any other barbiturate. On the other hand I kept my fingers crossed it would just be the typical overnight downpour with the roads quickly drying up with the first sun in the morning. And the sun was out indeed when I woke up as if never anything happened! It still surprises me how quickly the weather elements do change here. Can be quite a challenge when out there on the bike though as you do have only very little time to find shelter.

Despite those glorious morning conditions the forecast was for further showers all day long and with the weather-sensitive racing bike I was quickly in the saddle once I saw the first clouds move back in. Just a swift breakfast and then off hoping for the best. In the end the sky remained overcast but no more drops falling out of it. Once again I would not see any rain until I reached my destination Ban Krut and I wouldn´t mind perpetuating this record until arriving Penang in 6 weeks from now.

I really do like that first section leaving PKK to the south. You have to pass the well guarded gates of the military airbase but this time they didn´t even ask me to sign in. Just the most asked question in Thailand: "Bei nei?" (Where are you going?) and my answer "Bei Ban Krut!" together with the fact I was on a bicycle satisfied them. I have reported on that unorthodox crossing of the airstrip a few times and was very keen to show you what it looks like. There is military personnel on both ends of it though and everytime I tried to take a photo I was rather rudely stopped from doing so. Same this time when I approached the northern end but luck was on my side. As soon as I had addressed the guard the red light started flashing indicating there was some take off or landing activity coming up. He urged me to go through before the gates would close and so I did. On the other end his comrade was in a conversation with some motorist and I finally got my shot, conspiratively using my mobile phone. Ridiculous how such a completely irrelevant incident can sometimes lift your mood....

Next up was the famous Ao Manao Beach. Some of its reputation certainly comes by the peculiar location within that military compound but it certainly is an attractive stretch of sand too. Mostly catering for local people as you will see below by the typical sun-sheltered beach restaurants.

Despite the longish stretch along Highway 4, aka Phetch Kasem Road, following later on it was once again a lovely ride. Different to some of the single-digit highways further north there is lush tropical vegetation all along it and the wide, smooth hard shoulder definitely helps. Actually I thoroughly enjoyed cycling along here today as there was still the threat of rain in the air and with the help of a moderate tailwind I made most of my highspeed steed. Just a touch more than 1 hour for the 35 km, I can´t recall ever having gone that fast while cycling with panniers.

Ban Krut is still my favourite beach on Thailand´s mainland I suppose. Not the cliche palmtree fringed beach as in Maenam/Ko Samui for instance but several other attractive features. Great choice of bungalow resorts for a start. My favourite has always been the Phrao Thai Resort, more or less in the middle of the small beach settlement. As the resort was fully booked in April I stayed at the Ruenthalay Resort but now I can take advantage of the low season again and had the free choice of bungalow. I went for the first one on the left, allowing for a decent view onto beach and sea from my balcony. At least 4 nights here - I am slowly learning to withdraw from that former permanently-on-the-move approach.

Prachuap Khiri Khan town center beach. Hard to believe I could not go to sleep because of the heavy rainfalls just a few hours before.

I guess this monk has to wear sunglasses as he would otherwise be dazzled by all the gold on him.

I finished off my short visit to the Temple of the Royal Islands with a rice porridge (joc moo) on the actual compound.

Gates down for take-off. If I would have held my nerves together for another minute I would have got a shot with one of their old Tiger Moth training aircrafts

Ao Manao Beach before the first day trippers arrived.

One of the few remaining wooden stilt houses on the way.

As I keep referring to Highway 4 and its wide shoulder- here it is.

The first time I am here for the papaya season.

Accurately stored for the transport to the market.

And as we are in Thailand, my interest in their labour was rewarded with three large, ripe specimen for my next 28 breakfasts...

Today's ride: 69 km (43 miles)
Total: 193 km (120 miles)

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