Day 21: Khuan Don/Thailand - Kangar/Malaysia - Frankie goes to.....the South of Thailand (2018)

December 1, 2018

Day 21: Khuan Don/Thailand - Kangar/Malaysia

Ever since I got injured in that bomb attack in the Yala Province I can´t help feeling a bit queasy when I get to one of the Muslim dominated provinces in Southern Thailand. Realistically the conflict concentrates on the three provinces Yala, Pattani and Narathiwat but there have been fatal explosions in Hat Yai and Songkhla too.

The two nights in the very Muslim village of Khuan Don have certainly helped to ease my anxiety for this area though. I cannot recall that I ever have been made so entirely welcomed like over those last two days. From the young couple running the Satun Premium Resort, over the Pad Thai lady next to the 7eleven to the staff of the rice porridge restaurant in the morning market and last but not least the group of Muslim women pleasing me with their outstanding noodle soup. It was such a joy staying in this village, I am still overwhelmed.

If I would have had more time remaining, I would have stayed even longer. I would still not say I am under time pressure now but I need to be in/on Penang in 3 days time. Normally easy-peasy but with the current unsettled weather conditions there is always the risk of losing another day which I cannot afford. Today gave me a first impression what my days may look like until Penang. Shower-hopping would probably be an appropriate expression. It is essential to anticipate these downpours properly as the rain seems to come even faster and harder than on the Thai side of the border.

But let me talk about the day in chronogical order as I still thoroughly enjoyed it despite the weather mess. From Khuan Don it is just 22 km to the border and it is a delightful approach. Friendly people everywhere, nice scenery, in particular the last few kilometers before the border through the Thale Ban National Park.

I was even more pleased with the immigration procedures on both sides. It took me precisely 10 minutes from stopping at the Thai departure counter until I had my Malaysian stamp. In particular the Malaysian part of the process was most agreeable. "Good morning, Sir!" - Stamp - "Welcome to Malaysia!". Finished. Why do 99.8% of immigration officers in this world find it so difficult to give you a friendly welcome? 15 minutes later my chirpy-cheep-cheep mood got a temporary setback though. For some reason I didn´t expect that 2.5 km long wall in front of me. Once over the top it was a delightful run into Kangar though, only interrupted by three more rain stops.

I like Kangar but couldn´t precisely tell you why. Nothing outstanding in the way of sightseeing but busy with trade and nightmarket activities do I find it very pleasant to roam the town center. My accommodation this time is the typical Chinese 0.2-star Ban Cheong Hotel at 65 Ringgit (14 €/ 16 USD) for a single room. Basic but clean and central. All I need for that one night.

I always wondered why not more house owners have the courage to use colours.

Talking about colours: There is no nicer green than this one

One of the ubiquitous military checkpoints in the Thai-Muslim dominated areas

I really enjoyed cycling along the #4184

Here we go again. It is not the question whether it will rain but when

The whole border compound was as friendly as the officers dealing with me

Welcome to Malaysia! - Thank you, happy to be back

That´s when I was still thinking I should definitely recommend this particular route for your Thai-Malaysia crossing but just round the corner....

...this 2.5 km long bitch of a climb was waiting. It eased off a bit after the first kilometer but a heavy downpour with no shelter in sight stopped me from enjoying this

Kangar. Quite a nice installation featuring the muslim sword but they could do so much more about that riverfront

Today's ride: 63 km (39 miles)
Total: 1,614 km (1,002 miles)

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