Day 16: Trang - Had Pakmeng / Andaman Sea - Frankie goes to.....the Gulf of Thailand (2022)

January 26, 2022

Day 16: Trang - Had Pakmeng / Andaman Sea

I assure you it wasn´t easy packing these panniers again this morning. Although my house is by no means in one of the privileged areas of Trang, I feel most comfortable here. It´s a rather non-wealthy neighbourhood of mostly hard working, poorly paid Thai people who definitely treat me like one of their own. I am sure I could leave these massive lattice doors open and not one thing would go missing. Well, that´s at least what it feels like to me and that´s all important if you want to feel comfortable I believe.

So it did feel like coming home and leaving again the very next morning feels a bit strange indeed. Mind you the change to the lighter bike, rear panniers only and already coming back tomorrow night gives it the touch of a more recreational ride anyway. I will be doing a loop but this post is only about the way over to Had Pakmeng and my afternoon on the beach.

I realy adore Pakmeng Beach and come here quite often. Not for swimming or sunbathing - the journey and the food are the reward! So it´s more about some recreational cycling, a couple of hours of lunch under the highly attractive multitude of parasols and spending the night in one of the many affordable bungalow resorts. Do as the Thais do!

So I did and it certainly felt more like an appropriate finish to this tour than just rolling into my empty house. And now it is indeed time to say thank you for joining me on this shortish trip. It´s been tough due to my lack of fitness and the permanent headwind but the conclusion is undisputed: I love cycling in Thailand!

PS. As of today I am not sure whether I will do another long-distance ride or "just" pedal around the South until I will board my plane headed for Germany on March 15. First of all I will enjoy the colourful, noisy and long running celebrations around the Chinese New Year (February 1) here in Trang.

I did! I really adore those huge 3D tourism installations on the large intersections in the South of Trang. The deal with local ethnic groups (Sakai tribe), products (watermelons), activities (cycling) and...

...attractions like the unique Tuk Tuks. You have seen the originals in my post on the train ride from Trang to Phetchaburi.

One last in-the-middle-of-nowhere temple.

...professional fishermen on the way up to Had Pakmeng.

Plenty of shade in the "The Tree Tunnel" just south of Pakmeng

There are actually Dugongs in this area and I would be very keen to finally spot some down at the Chao Mai National Park while I am here.

Up at the Pakmeng Pier where the tourist boats are waiting for tourists.

That´s what I call a "Thai beach". Enjoying the seafood in the shade all afternoon while the kids can play on the vast, extremely shallow beach. At the weekend that is, on a weekday you will be almost on your own.

Not being a keen swimmer myself, I am more than happy to conform. Today with another of my favourite meals: phla mhgg toard gratiam (fried squid with garlic).

Celebrating the finish with a black softdrink...

...and some dessert. Just what the doctor ordered when I was about to leave for my resort: The coconut icecream man turned up. It's called "i tim katee" in Thai and has a bottom layer of sweet sticky rice, then the ice cream, some coconut flesh and peanuts on top.

A last colourful view from my table and then off to the bungalow on the other side of the beach road.

I picked the longer but in my opinion more scenic route. There is a much quicker, straight route along the #4046 and #4162. Not too bad but fast traffic...

Today's ride: 56 km (35 miles)
Total: 1,087 km (675 miles)

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mark baisi
Good tour, great report and pics, Frank. You made me quite homesick. :)
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2 years ago

Bruce LellmanGreat tour once again. I really enjoy your colorful, happy photos. They have really helped us this winter. Thank you, Frank. I always enjoy your journals. We will meet someday, in Thailand.
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2 years ago

Frank RoettgenTo Bruce LellmanYour kind words are much appreciated, Bruce! It feels to me like Andrea and you have been close friends for years and we never sat at the same table yet. Has to be changed! May I suggest Thailand as neutral territory?
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2 years ago

Frank RoettgenTo mark baisiThank you, Mark! And I haven't even been up to Nan..... Would love to do some cycling up there before I leave in March though.
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2 years ago

Rich FrasierThanks for this journal! It was a great introduction to an area I know nothing about. I’m now thinking we might try to tour here someday. Beautiful pictures too!
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2 years ago

Frank RoettgenTo Rich FrasierThank you very much for your kind and positive feedback, Rich. I was initially very hesitant drafting a journal on this ride, as I have written about the same route at least a couple of times before, if not more often. In the end I thought: If I could inspire at least one cyclist who hasn´t been down the Gulf yet.... Mission accomplished, I would say! Please don´t hesitate to ask any other question that hasn´t been answered in my blog.
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2 years ago

Bruce LellmanTo Rich FrasierRich,
As Frank wonderfully describes, this section of Thailand is a gem. Andrea and I love it down there. I suggest anytime between the middle of Nov. to the end of Feb. Earlier is probably better (before smoke from the incessant burning of fields in the north filters down south). The food and colorful sights, cheap guest houses and gentle, peaceful friendly people all make for a great trip. It is hot and humid. Frank doesn't talk about that much. He must be not as affected by it as I am. It just makes a person drink more coconut juice!
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2 years ago