If that dog hadn´t bitten me and if Lamae wouldn´t be the dumpish place it is, today may have well received that very rare 10 out of 10 rating. But first things first.....
I am always sad to leave the Nakoarimlay Homestay and my friends Peed and Go Ma behind but the weather forecast made it much easier for me today. Sunny, 28 C, wind from northeast. Ideal cycling conditions! For my direction in particular and I knew that my plan to cut the 190 km towards Surat Thani into half would have Lamae as my destination at the end of the day.
As I said yesterday already I have done this bit between Chumphon and Surat Thani several times before but never the conditions have been as perfect as today. Did I enjoy my cycling along the #4011, 4198 and 4012! Never further than a stone throw away from the Gulf of Thailand and I don´t know how many times I stopped just to enjoy listening to the waves rolling ashore, to take some photos or to watch the locals going after their various businesses. Just and only delightful. Except that one attempt trying to get a photo down in a palm plantation, which was obviously home to a group of dogs who instantly went after me. I guess it was a mistake trying to kick out towards the most aggressive of the canines as he must have thought that knuckle had been shaved to give better grip for his teeth.... Not funny but could have been worse as he only snapped but didn´t hold on. Only 5 minutes delay to get the band aid on and then back into my business.
When I came to a T-junction after 80 kilometers, I had to decide whether to turn right for Lamae, 4 km inland along Hway 41 or to continue further along the sea towards Tha Chana. It was already after 4 pm and as I had never been to Lamae before, I decided for this option. Not my best choice ever as Lamae is a dusty accumulation of houses between the station and both sides of the Petchkasem Road with no obvious town center. No way I was finishing off this magnificent day in such a miserable spot. I quickly gulped down an electrolyte drink and off down the highway I was. The wind was still entirely in my favour but I knew the remaining hour of daylight wouldn´t be good enough to do the 27 km to Tha Chana. I tried hard but with 5 km to go it was certainly pitch black. I hate cycling in the dark but I was convinced I made the right decision which helped not getting upset about this unpleasant ending to the day.
The Piyapatt Hotel is not even registered on google maps and was pointed out to me by a very helpful local chap. If you should ever get stranded in Tha Chana too: Go down the street parallel to the station road with first the 7eleven then the TescoLotus on your left. Keep going past the pink Government Savings Bank and then turn left at the T-junction. The motel-style establishment will soon be on your left hand side. Nothing flash but good value with aircon and good WiFi for 380 Baht. No sink for some reason but anything was itbetter than staying in Lamae.... Nothing could have spoilt the day after those glorious first 85 kilometers anyway.
...and the seafood dinner: Pad Khrapao Talay (Fried Thai Basil with Seafood) and Kai Chiau Puh (Omelette with Crab). As always pimped up by her numerous edible blossoms --- PS. I took a video when Peed cooked the pad khrapao, one of Thailand´s most popular dishes. It takes only very few standard ingredients and 3 minutes of cooking time. Try it, it is ever so easy with a most delicious result:
.....the standard farewell pic with Go Ma in front of the homestay it was definitely time to bid farewell! Thank you once again for such a wonderful time, Peed and Go Ma. I will be back asap!
I should have been warned! While taking this bike celebration shot at Sairi Sawee Beach a coconut dropped roughly where I would be standing while getting the kickstand out. One time lucky but there was another injury waiting for me...
Bruce LellmanThat looks horrible. I've been nipped by two dogs at different times in Thailand and they never looked that bad. I'm sorry this happened to you. Reply to this comment 4 years ago
Frank RoettgenTo Bruce LellmanYour concern is very much appreciated, Bruce. As I mentioned I believe I overreacted - will just let them bark in the future.... Reply to this comment 4 years ago
Chris WeeNice Solomon shoes Frank ! The dog was kind in not biting it. I will hunt it down if it bit my shoes. Reply to this comment 4 years ago
Estuary no. 2 at Paknam Lang Suan. No wonder the south east asian waters are completely overfished. Any single town along the Gulf of Thailand will have a similar fleet
Time for a little photo story: While rolling along the #4019 I stopped at this huge anchovy drying business. The owner (here in the very background) saw me, came over, and -we are in Thailand!-....
...packed me a lunch bag. You would hardly believe how nice the people here are. And the anchovies too! Only mildy salty and full of that sea flavour. All the same....
So I decided to look for a nice picnic spot and had anchovies for lunch. Plenty of them! As nice as they are, that salty taste remained in my mouth over the next few kilometers and while stopping at an other estuary I thought: Something sweet would be nice now. And - as we are still in Thailand- .....
