Plouhinec to Quimper - French Fling - CycleBlaze

June 17, 2019

Plouhinec to Quimper

Another beautiful day!  This is what I came for!

Leaving the campground, I found myself on D784, the red road.  Traffic had been light late on a Sunday afternoon, but not on a Monday morning, even in France!  I turned off and joined my planned route along the coast as soon as possible.  That meant, of course, that I missed any breakfast opportunities Plouhinec might have had to offer, so when I came to a sign that said Plozévet-centre was off to the left, I turned left.  It was a bit of a climb and I sure hoped there was an open boulangerie and preferably a café too.  I've learned that you can't judge by the size of the orange splodge on the map.

View from the coast road. The Breton houses here are all like this, with a chimney at each end. This one has a garage added.
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The first boulangerie I passed was closed. I continued and found three more within close proximity of each other.  Only one of those was open, but I only needed one.  I bought a pain aux raisins (my go-to when I have no jam) and a small riz au lait (rice pudding).  This latter was in a disposable aluminum pan and the girl put it in a paper bag like any other bakery item. (This was the first time I'd seen rice pudding at a bakery--and it had been baked.)  I put it in the plastic bag I'd been carrying for a while before packing it away for later.

I took my pastry to the café next door and ordered my usual large café au lait.  This place either didn't do large, didn't have milk, or I didn't make myself understood. I received the usual tiny cup of espresso but with a little container of condensed milk along with the sugar and biscuit.  I resisted the temptation to have a second one. 

Returning to the coast road, it was a pleasant ride all the ways to Pointe de Penmarc'h.  Here I had a "salade de mer" for lunch (lots of fruits de mer, little salad) and then climbed the Phare de Eckmühl.  I love lighthouses and climb every one I can.

Brûlage de goémon. I think this means a place where seaweed was burnt(?) to make something. Fertilizer(?). I'll have to research this!
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The only thing I've seen featuring traditional Brétonne dress. This statue is at the same location as the previous photo but I don't think they are related. The inscription is illegible.
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Morning snack location, Plovan. I found this ideal tent-drying rack in a little park where I ate my riz au lait. It was a good thing I'd put it in a plastic bag because it leaked a lot of milk!
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It was in a lovely walled garden, now a public park.
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These are common in gardens. So cheery!
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Just another ruin...
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The Michelin map has a bold notation about this: N.-D. de Tronoën (Calvaire). I thought I'd stop and take a look since it was right beside my road.
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Notre-Dame de Tronoën. There was a sign describing how to read these. You start on one side and go around clockwise. I think you read both levels on each side before proceeding, but I'm not that up on the New Testament. The scene on the lower right corner of this side is clearly the Last Supper.
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Those are dunes out there, and then the Baie d'Audierne.
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Les Rochers de St-Guénole
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Les Rochers de St-Guénole
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La Chapelle de la Joie. After riding around its completely blank seaward wall, I had to go in.
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Interior, la Chapelle de la Joie. Note the hanging models and carved beams. The framed item to the left describes the major restoration done in 1998.
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At first I thought this might have been the bowsprit of an old ship, but who knows? She definitely has a comb and a mirror.
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One of the models. Perhaps this fishing boat came through a big storm thanks to Notre Dame?
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Sea monsters and JC.
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Phare d'Eckmühl
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A closer view of the entrance.
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It's beautiful inside too.
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Looking back down from the top of the spiral. As usual, the last bit is a steeper and narrower stair.
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View from the top, looking north
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And looking out to sea, with the old lighthouse in the foreground.
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And looking east. The southern shore isn't as pretty at low tide!
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The decoration goes right to the top, even though it's hard to see from the ground.
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The ceiling above the top of the spiral stair.
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Looking up at that ceiling from the bottom, using my 17mm prime lens at f8.
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Looking up at that ceiling from the bottom, using my zoom lens at 14mm at f8. Just a small change in focal length changes the perspective quite a bit!
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Penmarc'h had been my planned destination for today but there's not much besides the lighthouse.  Quimper was less than 30 km further along my route so I decided to carry on.

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The lighthouse looks a lot smaller from the end of the Grande Poiré breakwater. I think that's what it's called; you can walk or ride out to the tip. Just watch out for all the dog do on the way!
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The route I'd created at home was inland, skirting around Pont l'Abbé (not an appealing town from the little I saw) and picking up the voie verte that leads most of the way to Quimper.  The voie verte started well (don't they always?) but the surface eventually deteriorated and there was some mud after all the rain of the past couple of weeks.  Not as bad as it could have been since we've had two dry days, but if I were to go this way again, I'd take roads.

Close to Quimper, I asked Garmin to navigate me to my chosen campground, l'Orangerie de Lanniron.  I haven't changed any of the navigation settings (avoid major highways is on, avoid unsurfaced roads is off) but, instead of muddy tracks, it sent me onto a four-lane divided highway with no shoulder and suddenly there were high no-post barriers so I couldn't get off!  Yikes!  There was a bike route on the other side of the barrier but I never saw where it started and I couldn't get onto it.  Yikes!  I finally escaped that and after much circling and reloading the search, trying google maps on my phone, etc., I finally made it to the campground. 

The campground is a nice one, on the grounds of a former bishop's palace.  There's even a golf course (I don't golf) and, for the first time on this trip, a restaurant!

After setting up and getting cleaned up, I went over to the restaurant.  Unfortunately, they weren't serving dinner tonight... but they did have tapas.  I had the vegetarian tapas plate (3 kinds of cheese, pickles, hummus, guacamole), accompanied by really good bread and a glass of wine.  I enjoyed it, especially considering I didn't need to go anywhere!

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Today's ride: 85 km (53 miles)
Total: 2,878 km (1,787 miles)

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