October 8, 2021
Zarautz to Lekeitio
We were anticipating today with equal parts excitement and trepidation. Ann reads many blogs and has seen widely different versions of what today's ride might be like.
We are very happy to report that our day resembled the positive reports. The dates may have something to do with it as we are off season but can imagine how summer traffic would make this a much less pleasant ride.
Here goes.
As we left the hotel the sun was coming out, repeating yesterday's ride to Getaria with gorgeous, sunny views as we cycled towards it. We were extra polite as there plenty of walkers, some of whom gave us dirty looks.
Since the walkway ends in Getaria, we avoided sharing with traffic by heading inland rising above the coastal route, where we would still have terrific views. We somehow ended up on a steep and rough section of the Santiago de Camino walking trail with pilgrims so had to push our bikes over stones for a kilometre before our prayers were answered and we re-joined a paved road. The next 8km was a workout of climbs and descents but each hilltop and corner seemed more spectacular than the last. We came down off the ridge to Zumaia, rode into town and found a park bench to share an apple.
Then followed an almost never-ending climb up to the town of Itziar, where we saw a surprising number of industrial sized buildings; the economic geographer in our group could not understand why anyone would locate their industry at the top of such a steep hill!
Yahoo! A 5 km screaming downhill ride to Deba for lunch where we joined quite a few pilgrims as they spilled onto the main town square, in groups of two or three looking for sustenance too. We chatted, sitting around tables soaking up the sunshine. Steve and I felt their energy, to be part of an adventure, to be on the move, to be on a quest?
On the next section to Mutriku, again we steered our bikes onto a smooth, separated walking path hanging over the edge of the Bay of Biscaye and were grateful to be off season. With summertime crowds this would not be possible. We stopped the few times we met walkers but most were quite willing to share the trail. What amazing views.
From Mutriku we sped 5 km with little vehicle traffic coasting down into Ondarroa so fast that at first, we missed their iconic, white, cantilevered pedestrian bridge but found an old character bridge in the centre to admire.
Then, if it could possibly get any better we rode the best section of the day, and possibly of the trip: From Ondarroa to Lekeitio, 14 kms of traffic-free sailing through eucalyptus trees, pine forests and dizzying drop offs to the waters below. Wow!
We are not sure if it is because it is October, mid-week, or Covid, but travelling this stretch of road from Zarautz to Lekeitio was wonderfully untroubled by other humans.
We pulled into Lekeitio, found our hotel on a central pedestrian street, had quick showers then wandered the streets and port before choosing a minimalist, classy restaurant for a delicious fish dinner.
Today, we were able to ride this famous route with its 743 m of elevation gain and enjoy every minute of it. We are feeling grateful and are excitedly checking out the map to see what's next!
Today's ride: 54 km (34 miles)
Total: 1,283 km (797 miles)
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2 years ago
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2 years ago
Not sure if I responded to your note. Thanks for following along. 😊 I am heading to Bathurst soon after we arrive and will stay until early January. We hope to get a ski day with you guys in January, orford or Owls head?
2 years ago