October 10, 2021
Bakio to Bilbao
The Basque country's mountains are just west of the Pyrenees. They have challenged us since we arrived in Spain and are still a struggle on this very last day coming into Bilbao.
Lying in bed this morning looking at our planned ride for today on RideswGPS, the route was bookended by formidable passes. You would think we would know by now that we were headed for a workout. Not the case, we sailed away from the hotel feeling on top of the world for having chosen to come to this fabulous corner of Spain, having not a care in the world. A mere 2 km later we were reminded that we were actually at sea level and we had a choice: option A was to ride the shoulder of the smooth main road on a quiet Sunday morning with a gradual climb over the first pass, or follow the RideswGPS route and head straight up a steep hill, option B. We opted for the second. Had we known what was in store for us, we would have gone with option A. Within two minutes there was no cycling, we pushed our loaded bikes and kept it up for an hour, heading up inclines that felt like 20%. However, as we have learned, once up in the rarified air of the hills one is treated to unexpected sights and sites. At the top of this climb, sweat pouring into our eyes and down our backs, we came upon a fully intact 11th century church, the ethereal Ermita de San Miguel de Zumetzaga, and we had incredible views, looking one last time back to the Bay of Biscaye and Bakio. And there was a fun downhill on a dirt road.
The middle part of the day was much saner. We cycled through towns and villages on trails with "just" rolling hills, meeting many locals out strolling or cycling on a beautiful Sunday. We are impressed by the Basque region's pedestrian and cycling infrastructure and in particular how RideswGPS links into them making it super safe cycling.
Wisened by our earlier exertion and knowing that this last ridge was the worst climb of the day, we "prepared" for the onslaught by eating some dried figs and postponing the inevitable. Initially we kept thinking that it wasn't too bad and that we must be at the top, but the slope just would not level off, the road kept rising. Then we were funnelled onto a main highway as that is the only way over the pass (however we felt reasonably safe on a wide shoulder and it being Sunday there were no trucks). We kept climbing, until finally, there glistening before us in all its glory, lay Bilbao. The city is surrounded by hills with the Estuary of Bilbao dividing it as it snakes through the city.
After a few pics, we began a speedy descent on the roadway, down to the city where we picked up a bike path along the estuary and made our way to our hotel.
We are happy and grateful to have successfully cycled this coastal Basque country with its challenging mountains, heavenly beaches and dramatic coastline. We hope to return one day to continue cycling along the coast to Santander, Gijon, and maybe even around the cape to Santiago de Compostelo.
Today though, we are thankful to be here in Bilbao, another stunning city on our journey.
Today's ride: 31 km (19 miles)
Total: 1,388 km (862 miles)
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2 years ago
Thanks
We are following you on one of your previous great trips. We are in Salamanca for two nights. Wow what a spot, and then we do the big run to cuidad rodrigo. Love following in your bicycle tracks.
2 years ago
2 years ago