Before the breakfast room opened, I admred the architecture of the hotel. Though not super-fancy it was certainly in great shape and had definite character. Some online comments about 'dated' showed up but I have to disagree. I would say it was full of character. And though I really liked this traditionally Portuguese hotel, I was traditionally anxious to have breakfast and get going. The breakfast was much better than yesterday's and I even chose a nice fresh orange.
My bike was still in the storage room so I saddled it up and got rolling up toward the castle. I was kind of wanting to follow the bigger highway but initially followed my GPS routing and it certainly was beautiful, crossing over several ancient stone bridges, crossing under an ancient stone viaduct and rolling past farmer's fields along firm dirt paths.
I eventually did decide on the paved road but when I ignored the screaming of my GPS later on and rolled down a hill a bit too far, I came to a sign indicating the road became a big highway that did not permit bikes. Guess what I had to do? Climb back up the last hill, roll down the other side, get onto the dirt road, and climb back up again. I am not complaining, though, as the dirt road was beautiful again, as they had been yesterday.
As I rolled out of town my route was guiding me away from the main road. It meant ome pretty hilly climbs but crossing bridgea like this ancient stone bridge. -- Miranda do Douro, Portugal
After about 10 km I arrived to Duas Igrejas whch was the terminal point for the old Linha do Sabor railway line that sadly had been closed decades ago. A Portuguese friend, Roberto Sousa, rode this route and posted youtube videos of his tour a while back so when I told him I would be in this area he strongly suggested riding the Sabor. Yes, I was excited to finally be here.
After hearing and seeing so much about it... there it was right in front of me. The station, the turntable, the platforms, the light standards. All quiet and unused ... until maybe tourism grows in this area.
Something I have been looking forward to for months - a Portuguese friend suggested the Linha do Sabor Ecopista (rail-to-trail greenway) and this former terminus of the line is my starting point. -- Duas Igrejas, Portugal
Something I have been looking forward to for months - a Portuguese friend suggested the Linha do Sabor Ecopista (rail-to-trail greenway) and this former terminus of the line is my starting point. My bike is on the turntable that was used to spin the steam locomotive around so they'd be pointing the right way. The crank still turns the table! -- Duas Igrejas, Portugal
Something I have been looking forward to for months - a Portuguese friend suggested the Linha do Sabor Ecopista (rail-to-trail greenway) and this former terminus of the line is my starting point. -- Duas Igrejas, Portugal
I was glad to see that most of the Ecopista/greenway was packed limestone chips so cycling it was a breeze. Sometimes alongside planted fields, somtimes through berms of stone or sand. Always beautiful, with crickets chirping and birds singing as I cycled along. Otherwise, it was like I was the only person in Portugal.
The path was mostly packed limestone chips which were a dream to cycle on. Sometimes the route was through fields, but often it passed through these berms which were just so beautiful. -- Along the Linha do Sabor, Portugal
The path was mostly packed limestone chips which were a dream to cycle on. Sometimes the route was through fields, but often it passed through these berms which were just so beautiful. -- Along the Linha do Sabor, Portugal
If you look closely, you can see the grain of the cork. The bark (the cork) is peeled off the trees and then it just re-grows so more can be harvested later. Goes hand-in-hand with the grapes-for-wine thing. -- Along the Linha do Sabor, Portugal
This was the end of the first portion I was going to be able to follow on this tour. The next bit is all grown in and is virtually impossible to ride. A good part of my routefor the rest of the day sid parallel the old line, though. -- Sendim, Portugal
When I go to Sendim, the Ecopista ended and was totally unrideable. Not even an ATV would be able to pass. Luckily, there were roads or paths that ran parallel to the old railbed which was nice. I stopped in Urros just past the former Sabor station to have a capp, a croissant and rest my getting-weary self. The wind had picked up a lot and was a direct-hit headwind. The interesting thing is that my legs were totally fine as were my lungs, but it was my sit-down muscles that were telling me to stop sitting down!
The section of the Sabor was not rideable but was right beside the road and as I passed this tiny unused station there was a cafe a few metres away so I took a break from the really strong wind for a capp and croissant. -- Urrós, Portugal
Can you tell I'm getting burnt out here? I stood in the shade of a bus stop to take another big swig of electrolyte drink in order to rehydrate. That and to rest from the interminable wind and hills. -- Somewhere betwixt the two, Portugal
Within the final 10 km before Mogadouro I could see huge black clouds directly in front of me. The race was on. Would I have to stop and make sure my pannier covers were completely protecting my gear and would I have to stop to put a cover over my damaged GPS (my temp fix has hole in the side though which water will easily get into the electronics)? I kept an eye on the clouds but at the last minte they drifted to the north and missed me and town.
I made my first few turns into town then came alongside a long central garden/walking area that was beautiful and up behind it on the hill behind the old town was the looming castle.
I was so happy to finally roll into Mogadouro and was greeted by this pretty view at the end of which is my hotel. -- Mogadouro, Portugal
At the end of the long park was my hotel. I had arrived in one piece despite my sit-down muscles screaming and dry despite what had looked like an oncoming deluge.
I stepped into the lobby where the woman welcomed me to bring my bike in and up safely to my room - I assured her that it was very clean. I checked in and was impressed with the look of the place and was amazed with the size of my 'room'. It is almost apartment sized and it has a nice view out to the green fields surrounding town and overlooking the old town up the hill to the castle.
This is the view from my huge and beautiful room up through the old part of town to the castle. -- Mogadouro, Portugal
I asked the woman at the hotel about restaurants and she recommended the 'European' just around the corner from here - and she assured me they had platos do dia and would be serving lunch from 1 til 3 pm. Perfect. I ran my bike up the stairs to my room, gathered the things I'd need for a walk after lunch and went around the corner for cod cooked in olive oil with garlic and onions, served with potato slices, and a nice cool glass of pineapple Sumol. I love Sumol when I come here - it is something between pop and carbonated juice. Very thirst-quenching. All told, the lunch was more than I could eat, but was very tasty. The place was packed when I got in but almost empty by the time I left.
My cod, potatoes, onions and pineapple Sumol lunch. -- Mogadouro, Portugal
After lunch I wanted to walk up to the castle so I wandered through the old part of town, sadly full of for sale or for rent signs and many of the places simply crumbling over time. Some must have been glorious places in the past.
A beautiful-looking home that has seen better days. Lots of the old centres have these. If the place is touristy they become chic shops, restaurants or hotels. -- Mogadouro, Portugal
Up at the castle there were great views of the surrounding fields since Mogadouro is up on a hill. Views of the castle itself were quite imposing when seen from right below it.
It was pretty warm out so after a longish day of activity I returned to my huge room to finally clean up and such... when I heard the little sounds of raindrops hitting the windows. It was raining! And do they need it. Through the afternoon and into the evening at times huge black storm clouds would approach, I would hear booms of thunder, the wind would howl around the building and make anything loose clatter and then a huge dump of rain. It seems to be the passing of a cold front as tomorrow's high is 20 C rather than the recent 30 C that has been happening. It will be nicer cycling with temperatures more in the comfortable zone. I don't terribly mind it hot when I'm cycling but perfect is 18 to 23 C. In my opinion.
The castle on the hill to where I strolled after lunch and before the downpour came. -- Mogadouro, Portugal
As I was enjoying the periodic rain showers I gathered more information about tomorrow's route. It seems the Sabor continues to be unrideable until tomorrow's stop which means the following day will be back on the Ecopista. As with part of today's route, though, there are roads often running parallel to the Sabor so I may have to continue to follow it that way, though it means making the day's distance longer than I was thinking. That will be alright if the wind is not too bad, but I'm not sure how I'd do having two longish days with strong winds in a row. Tomorrow I'm sure all of this will reveal itself.
Today's ride: 53 km (33 miles) Total: 241 km (150 miles)
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Steve Miller/GrampiesInteresting to follow you heading west, as we head further west just ahead of you and then north to the Spanish border. This will be followed by going south along the coast to Porto. All this noodling about is so that we can use up the necessary time before we arrive in Porto. Still looking forward to meeting you. Reply to this comment 11 months ago
