May 2, 2023: Ricobayo de Alba to Miranda do Douro

May 2, 2023

Going back in time... by an hour

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Hotel Turismo Miranda, € 40 with breakfast

It was somewhat of a Dickensian kind of day with some highs and lows. and a tale of two countries.

When I went down for breakfast the owner gruffly asked what I wanted so I told him a capp. Then he asked if I wanted one of ths muffins behind the counter - more like a Stanley Cup playoff puck. He didn't ask if I wanted another capp or another puck so I had to ask. Hmmm, I thought, not much of a breakfast in the 'breakfast included' realm of things.

When I returned with my bags and to pay for my stay he proceeded to jot down the tabulation of these tasty treats. Meanwhile, at one point I had to wait to pay while he prepared real food for a couple of other guests. I was stunned. When he returned I told him that the breakfast was to be included as per my booking site which he confirmed when he called someone (his son who also works here?). They confirmed the price and that breakfast was included and suddenly he was gracious and smiling, asking if I'd like something more substantial. I turned it down since I was packed to go, teeth brushed, and stomach with at least 37 calories of food. Looking a bit sheepish he handed me a water bottle from the fridge. Interesting place. I'm not sure what I did, if anything, that was 'wrong' but I was content to leave. Not angry at all, but just disappointed with Spain (not a fault of the country, but it is the little things that count or add up, or count against.)

This morning started out on a small paved road with a climb away from the river that soon became fairly flat-ish. There were interesting and attractive stone fences everywhere going every which way with some of the plots cultivated, some tilled and ready to be planted and a few with livestock. The road was fairly quiet which was good since it was so narrow. Both cars and trucks (lorries) have been very respectful toward me - either pulling right to the other side of the road if safe to do so, and if not, slowing right down until they could safely pass. At these points, if it was easy for me to pull off the road, I would to keep them from having to stop.

Other than the livestock, away from the rivers this is how most of the terrain looked. Flatish, stone fences everywhere, and smallish plots, some of which were cultivated and some of which were for grazing. -- Near Ricobayo de Alba, Spain

In many spots the bedrock came out of the ground making for areas with no crop options. -- Near Ricobayo de Alba, Spain

These gentle-looking donkeys didn't even bat an eye as I went past. They just kept munching away on the grass in the cool morning air. -- Between Ricobayo de Alba, Spain, and Miranda do Douro, Portugal

I came to one of the river crossings where I stopped to check out the ghost town that has all of its buildings' windows and doors bricked over. I find ghost towns so eerie and though I looked online to see what had happened to the village there was nothing to find other than the population in 2020 was zero. My only guess was that it was originally the village for the dam-builders and over time they dwindled away. There were some really attractive old buildings and a clock frozen in time. Very haunting.

This entire village seems abandoned with all windows and doorways bricked solid. Some of the houses have empty parking spots, rusting swingsets, and here in the community centre the clock is forever frozen. Not sure why it is like this unless this was the village for the dam-builders. The dam is just down the road from here. -- Salto de Villalcampo, Spain

After the long but manageable climb from the dam back up to the falt fields, my route diverted from the small paved tertiary road to a dirt farming road that wound through the fenced fields. There was no traffic, there were no people and only the birds and my own thoughts kept me company.

It was at this point that I started to feel a wee bit nauseous and kind of weak. Not terrible, but I did slow down to stay safe and I was able to manage. Oh-oh. Tomorrow is a BIG day with a much longer distance and a lot of climbing.

Before I reached the border (or is that 'border') my dirt road merged with the paved road again and then started to angle down toward the Douro River hydro dam (yes, yet another one) which marks the border between Spain and Portugal. I went from one to betwixt to the other. As I crossed, I felt it kind of creepy crossing this humming concrete monolith of turbines, gushing water and high heights. For as long as I can remember, I do not like hydroelectric dams. I find them eerie, and always have, and have felt it on each of the crossings over the past few days. It is not a huge dread, but certainly a slight dread as I approach and a sense of relief once I am across and away. I know, I know, I'm just an odd duck!

The part that WAS nice was the gorge just above the dam that was right below town. Huge stone cliffs and poppies swaying in the breeze. It was quite the climb, though, but again, I'm finding that my legs and lungs are well in shape - just that tummy thing today.

After a long and fast descent to the river crossing at the hydroelectric dam, there was an equally long and steep climb up to town. That being said, the views were amazing, with this gorge in the Douro right below town. -- Miranda do Douro, Portugal

Wondering if I was dehydrated or getting too much sun, I sought out and found a cafe where I had a capp and a couple of goodies and just sat and relaxed for a while. This was a good thing - as anyone who knows me understands, I get going early so often arrive early. Added to this today was that when I crossed that spooky dam I went back in time... by an hour. So now it was an hour earlier than early.

After resting and cooling off for about an hour, and putting away some tastier calories, I walked my bike around the corner about 30 m to my hotel. Though the doors opened when I walked up to them there was nobody in the lobby, but there was a phone with a note saying for guests to dial '0'. The first person spoke neither English nor French but the second person spoke better French than mine. Within five minutes they both came around the corner, had me park my bike in the utility closet, gave me the rundown on the hotel and the key to my room.

My hotel room overlooking the castle. Yes, it is huge. Online comments complained about how the hotel is old though very clean and with friendly staff. I have to say I was quite pleased with the look of the room. -- Miranda do Douro, Portugal

The view from my room of the Castle. A mystical, medieval marvel in Miranda. -- Miranda do Douro, Portugal

Since checking in, I have walked up the street for a sandwich and some fruit for lunch but soon came back to the room to try to sleep off whatever is bothering me. In case it is dehydration or sun, I wanted to keep out of it. This is unfortunate as I have been looking forward to exploring the town, including its castle and cathedral and the views to the river gorge. Possibly later this evening, but I shall see how I feel.

Today's ride: 40 km (25 miles)
Total: 188 km (117 miles)

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Kelly IniguezYou are doing an exemplary job of both telling your touring story so readers feel as if they are riding with you AND documenting for those of us who are following behind. I always appreciate specific lodging and dining option information. Maps are also helpful - then we know where that little dirt road is that you enjoyed.

Our day into Zamora is short - you've given us a good list of places to go see with our half day off.
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11 months ago

Brent IrvineTo Kelly IniguezThank you so much. I basically type a stream of consciousness and I know when I look back on older tours I, too, like where my ramblings have taken me.
Enjoy Zamora. It is a true gem.
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11 months ago

Shelley RummoGet lots of rest and feel better :)
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11 months ago