August 11, 2023
Day 22:Heemstede to den Haag
Back in the dunes
It’s exciting to open the blinds to sunshine in the farmyard. And the temperature is warmer than yesterday too, according to my phone. We truly feel that summer is back on track, after three weeks of – let’s be honest – blustery grey and cool days.
Our departure is leisurely, once again. Our destination, den Haag (The Hague) is just 50 km away, mostly via the coastal Eurovelo route EV 12, for a 3pm check-in. It’s so good to ride in summery conditions. While making our way out to the coast, we’re on bike paths and a surprising distance of it is in sheltered woodland.
Nearing the coast, we’re on the lookout for a seaside café, somewhere small and with a view, we think, will be nice. I can’t get to grips with European and English seaside towns. Our expectations are shattered every single time. The skyline is the clue as we approach Noordwijk. There are multi-storey hotels and casinos, restaurants galore, and – now that summer has made a comeback – people making the most of the sunshine in their rented deck chairs. We stop at the very nice Beach Club resort and enjoy coffee and (also very nice) chocolate cake with a view. As cyclists, we’re both over- and under-dressed: Too many layers and too utilitarian for our surroundings. But no one cares.
From this point, we’re battling a coastal head wind (again!) as well as some surprisingly draining undulations. It’s interesting countryside in the dunes. But what is really interesting is the huge number of cyclists out on the coastal path today. I’m not exaggerating when I say we’ve seen thousands: Family groups, of course, but a huge number of road cyclists on training rides. Women in flowing dresses and one chap in a sports jacket and formal pants and shoes. Some people, other people, have the knack of looking elegant on a bike. I have to scrub chain oil off my legs in the shower every night.
We begin to turn inland after cruising through a second large resort town – happily waving goodbye to the coastal wind - and pass through the suburbs of Scheveningen. Many moons ago, we landed in Europe for the first time and travelled up the coast to seaside Scheveningen. We were with friends whose distant cousin showed us the ropes: how to pronounce the name of the town correctly and how to eat pickled herrings. Both involved spitting. It was a hilarious evening.
Today though, we whizz through the outskirts (even writing its name is challenging), cross Het Kanal and are into Den Haag itself. Huge residential buildings flying national flags remind us that The Hague is the seat of government of the Netherlands, as well as the International Court of Justice.
To us, it’s just another busy, cycle-filled city to navigate en route to our hotel. That being the case, why are we even here? The answer is – it’s Friday.
Today's ride: 51 km (32 miles)
Total: 1,146 km (712 miles)
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9 months ago
9 months ago