To Vertrieu

May 12, 2025

It started raining last night around six pm, with showers predicted to end sometime mid- to late-morning. It was still damp outside when I went down for breakfast at 7:30, but things had dried up by the time I posted another journal entry and I was on my way at 10:30 under dry but cloudy skies. Though things started out a bit gloomy, the day ended with spectacular views along the Rhone and a hearty home-made meal.

It was just over thirty miles to Vertrieu so I had plenty of time to wander the back roads of Bresse before my 4 pm check-in time. The first few miles passed through the woods of Forêt de Seillon then skirted the town of Lents before opening onto farm fields and views of the Jura mountains to the east. I was traveling through very rural France, seemingly alone in the world as one turn after another directed me down another small road not towards a town but toward a farmhouse – Le Mas Vernon, Mas Bouchy, Mas Massard. It was the kind of cycling I love, even if I had to my elevenses sitting in a hedgerow on the side of the road.

After fourteen miles, I left the farmsteads behind, joining a somewhat larger road as it swept me down off the low plateau to Gévrieux and across the Ain River to Saint-Maurice-de-Rémens. I climbed up to Église Saint Maurice and found a nice spot on the wall where I could finish my lunch.

The skies brightened as the day progressed

The first half of the day was spent on small roads through a very rural area of France

It turned out to be a blue sky, big cloud day

Beyond Saint-Maurice-de-Rémens, the roads got a little bigger and the pass through towns were actually towns. It was a beautiful landscape, with open vistas, fields of poppies, and mountains rising in the east. Traffic was light and I was feeling lucky and carefree. The rocky cliffs above the Rhone appeared in the distance and I was soon crossing the river in stream of traffic. There was a bike lane on the other side where I lay down Vivien George and walked back to mid-span, soaking in the views and snapping some photos.

I continued on the bike path and almost immediately ran into Peter and Miriam, a French couple traveling the Via Rhona bike path to Basel. We chatted a bit in a mix of French and English – Peter wanted to practice his English while I was keen to work on my French. We parted ways as they headed north while I continued to the short distance to Vertrieu. Though I was a bit early for check-in, I was warmly welcomed at my Chambre d’Hôte by Francis, who stowed Vivien George in her own small garage.

Bigger vistas, bigger roads, but still very little traffic

The Bugey Mountain cliffs beckon me to the Rhone

Peter and Miriam, a French couple heading up the Rhone on the Via Rhona

Vertrieu is a very small medieval village that lies at a bend in the Rhone River. After cleaning up, I went out for a walk - through the village and down to the river. Like much of the day, it seemed I’d traveled back to a simpler time, when life moved at a slower pace. A handful of people were walking about, including an elderly woman who said I could take a picture of her house, but not one of her. I strolled to the river’s edge, and could have dipped a toe if desired. But I just stood and gawked as the sun illuminated the cliffs of the Bugey Mountains. I felt calm and alive.

The only restaurant in town, a pizza joint, has been closed for many years

The church still has pews and kneelers, just like I remember from my youth.

At river's edge, staring at the rock cliffs of the Bugey mountains

Château de Vertrieu - built in the 17th century, it is also referred to as Château Neuf, the New Castle

I returned to Relais du Destin for my online French class and then it was time for dinner. I had booked the half-board option, knowing it was a Monday evening in France when the majority of restaurants are closed. In fact, that's why I ended up at Relais du Destin. I went down to the kitchen at 7:30 and there was Francis, clad in his chef’s jacket, putting the final touches on a fresh asparagus salad, to be followed by a beef/potato/turnip stew which, like the salad, was made of locally sourced ingredients. His wife Horia joined us and we three had a most convivial meal sitting around their kitchen island, talking politics, taxes, and the Via Rhona.

It was a bit of an accident that I discovered Vertrieu and Relais du Destin – I had originally thought I would stay in the nearby town of Lagnieu. But late booking and limited options led me to a special place at a bend in the river.

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Today's ride: 33 miles (53 km)
Total: 329 miles (529 km)

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Kathleen JonesWhat a day. One to remember.
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2 weeks ago

Susan CarpenterTo Kathleen JonesIt certainly ranks pretty high on the list. I've loved the times when I can share a meal with my hosts. And this was especially memorable because the conversation was all in French!
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1 week ago