May 29, 2025
To Paris
Train Day – it was a long and interesting day and all went quite smoothly, at least for me. But there are a few aspects to my story that may prove useful to others traveling by train with bikes and/or dogs.
After finishing my express breakfast, I retrieved Vivien George and walked/rode the few blocks to the train station. I arrived was in plenty of time for my 9:24 train to Lyon so I adopted the “wait and see” routine of periodically looking at the departure board to learn what platform I’d be departing from. I was elated when Platform A was “announced” – no stairs or elevator.
It was a holiday weekend so there were a fair number of people on the platform as the train came into the station. A bike car stopped in front of me, one with stairs leading up to an interior with hooks for five bikes. I removed the panniers and was carrying VG up the stairs when a train attendant stopped me and asked if I had a bike reservation. Yes, I replied, and he then helped hoist VG on the hook. I went back to the platform for my panniers and took a seat as the train departed. Within a few minutes, the attendant returned asking to see my bike reservation – a separate document than the SNCF ticket itself. I’d purchased the bike reservation months ago on the TER Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes website for the price of 1€. The train ticket was purchased through the SNCF app after I made sure I had secured a bike reservation for the specific train I wanted, and both tickets were on my phone.
Soon, the conductor came around to check our actual train tickets, something that I find happens somewhat sporadically on TER lines. I had no problem but the chap sprawled out on the other side of the car had a lengthy conversation with the conductor regarding a ticket for his dog Toyko. Turns out, dogs are like bikes in that they also require a separate reservation and, in most cases, a 5€ fee. Steven hadn’t been able to find the link to pay in advance for Toyko and consequently was charged an on-train fee of 20€. Ironically, when the conductor went to show Steven how to access the online site for dogs, he too was unable to find the link and had to call in a female colleague for help.
Another cyclist boarded a few stops up the line, Martin, a dentist from the Netherlands. He was on his way to meet friends in the Morvan and was taking trains as far as Macon in order to avoid traffic through Lyon. The train bike monitor showed up soon after Martin boarded and asked to see his bike reservation. Martin promptly displayed his SNCF ticket with the bike logo, but did not realize he also needed a separate TER reservation. I explained the new requirement for reserving bikes on certain TER lines/days and the opaque method of figuring out what was required and how to go about reserving space/getting a ticket. The train monitor let it go, but Martin was worried about the Lyon to Macon leg of his trip – there were no more bike reservations available so he ended up biking from Lyon to the Morvan.
Steven, Martin and I bonded over our shared dissatisfaction at the lack of integration between the SNCF and the TER sites, especially as it pertains to extra-fees for dogs and bikes. The conversations broadened as we found common interests – Steven is a huge NBA fan while Martin’s specializes in dental neuromuscular disorders and so was quite knowledgeable about Scott’s vision disorder. The time passed quickly until we arrived in Lyon and after a round of selfies we went our separate ways. These random interactions are one of the things I enjoy most about touring – the opportunity to make a real but ephemeral connection and depart without further obligation.
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I had almost three hours in Lyon before my train to Paris. My first task was to capture the Invader that my map said was close by the station and then find someplace to eat. I recalled from my last trip through Gare Lyon Part-Dieu that there was a nice café with healthy food and a place for Vivien George. They extended her the same courtesy this time, and I sat down for a green smoothie and a hearty breakfast bowl. If you’re into that type of food, I highly recommend the Arctic Juice and Café the next time you’re in the Lyon train station.
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3 days ago
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There were no bike spaces available on the TGVs from Lyon to Paris, so I was in for a longer and slower journey on the TER (5 hr vs 2 hr on the TGV). On the upside, there were elevators for each platform and it was an easy roll-on with no hooks, just a rail and a strap. Interestingly, no one was checking bike reservations (Martin would have been fine) and no conductor went through to scan train tickets until there was a crew change three hours into the trip. I should note that this train was part of the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté regional TER, and I had secured a free bike reservation at their Mobigo web site. The lesson learned is that each regional TER operates under different regulations and even enforcement of those regulations. The initial challenge for cycling tourists is even knowing which region you are traveling through – only then can you find what the rules are and how you might comply.
I arrived at the Bercy train station about 6:30 pm and after a ride across Paris was back home at just past 7 pm. I’m not sure where I’m off to next, but I’ll be sure to let you know.
Today's ride: 5 miles (8 km)
Total: 710 miles (1,143 km)
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1 week ago
David and I had dinner with Carolyn K and John last weekend. They asked after you, and I said you were in France right now, living your best life. Don’t think I was wrong!
1 week ago