To Belley

May 13, 2025

My long march south ended today as a I rounded a loop in the Rhône river and headed north to the town of Belley, the capital of the historical region of Bugey. There was some discussion at dinner last night as to the best route to Belley. I had planned a fairly short ride of about 30 miles on smaller department roads that generally followed the Rhône River as it looped around the Bugey Mountains. However Francis strongly encouraged me to take the Via Rhôna cycle route, which I could take essentially all the way from Relais du Destin to Belley. In fact, I had previously downloaded the Via Rhôna gpx file for this section but the track was 50 miles long, due mostly to a meander through some beautiful villages in the French countryside. Francis insisted, noting that the route was flat and was the most beautiful stretch of the Via Rhôna. So I heeded his advice and planned a new route that skipped the meander but stayed on Via Rhôna for most of the journey. The net result was more miles than I’d originally planned, but a spectacular day. Thank you Francis.

Breakfast was served in my room – pastry, breads, yogurt, cheese, fruit, dates – and after stowing what I didn’t eat I retrieved Vivien George from her chambers and exchanged heartfelt good-byes with Francis and Horia. It was a chill and foggy morning as I crossed back over the Rhône and picked up the Via Rhôna, enjoying the relaxed cycling on a dedicated cycle path

After five miles, I left the cycle route for departmental roads that took me up and away from the river. It was a pleasant ride thirteen mile ride through a rolling countryside with little traffic. The fog lifted, the roads were smooth and I made pretty good time (for me) to Pont de Groslée where I rejoined the Via Rhôna.

Thank you Francis and Horia for a wonderful stay

A last look at Vertrieu, just visible below the fog

Leaving the Via Rhôna as the sun begins to emerge from the fog

Enjoying the winding road through the countryside

Back to the river at Pont de Groslée - can you spot Vivien George?

At Pont de Groslée I met Monica, a most delightful woman from Basel who was heading south to the sea

I have fond memories of cycling along southern portions of the Via Rhôna south of Valence and it was a delight to be back with an old friend taking me through new places. It was decidedly scenic area of the Rhône and I took my time, pedaling along with my head on a swivel while enjoying a splendid afternoon. There were several river crossings and stretches away from the river that took me through crop fields and small hamlets. With no worrying about traffic, there was ample opportunity to relax and enjoy the moment.

View upriver from the bridge at La Bruyère

Lunch break at Plage Murs et Géligneux, along a small widening of the Rhône at Cuchet Lake

Field of emerging corn along the Via Rhôna

Blue sky and puffy clouds were an added bonus

Despite my trepidation, I managed to cycle across the small passerelle

There was one last river crossing and a climb up to Belley on a good bike lane before I arrived at my hotel, located on the edge of the city center. I explored a bit of the city, a fairly lively but not touristy town. I still had plenty of provisions left in my bag so I opted for a picnic dinner in my room and spent time going through pictures and reliving the pleasures of the day.

I find something magical in clouds reflected on water

The TI had loads of information on cycling in the Bugey area and along the Rhône. Perhaps I'll return....

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Today's ride: 42 miles (68 km)
Total: 371 miles (597 km)

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Scott AndersonI'm enjoying these scenes of the Rhone from the north as we're converging coming from the south.
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2 weeks ago

Gregory GarceauI can't wait to see the convergence that Scott was writing about.
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2 weeks ago