Over the hills and far away: Cluny to Quincieux

June 7, 2016

Don't put your trust in labels. The trail from Cluny to Macon is supposed to follow the same rail line as the trail into Cluny from the north. But it can't. First the new line for the high speed TGVs obliterated the old route, then the autoroute ate up much of the rest. What remains is a long tunnel and a few kilometers on the Macon side of the hill, connected by farm roads. The whole idea of tunnels is to avoid hills, but with the new constructions, the connecting paths do almost as much climbing as if the tunnel was not used at all. So, while "rail trail" would be partly accurate, it's not really a rail trail at all.

The tunnel. It's well lit, but wet from seepage near the entrances.

Once out of the tunnel, the trail goes down. It was a very easy coast until Charny-les-Macon, where the trail is being repaved. Side roads are easy enough, though.

The poplar trees are shedding their seeds. White fluff is drifting onto the roads.

A pretty old lavoir. These communal wash houses are found all over France, and in the era before indoor plumbing were a meeting place for the village. Legend has it the Napoleon III had heard the Queen Victoria thought the French dirty, so he ordered the building of these wash houses.

Once into Macon, I took the old bridge across the much swollen Saone. The left bank routes are quieter than the right, and it was a peaceful ride to St. Dicier sur Chalerronne. Bistro for lunch.

The rest of the ride was spent dodging thunderstorms. I only stopped once until I got to Anse, where I recrossed the Saone. The only hotel in Anse was full, as was the next one, but the one after that, Tante Yvonne in Quincieux had a room, and best of all, a great chef in the kitchen. After a shower and some blogging, I was seated on the terrace waiting for the menu, when the thunderstorm that I had successfully avoided all day decided to have at me. I ran inside, and got reseated in the dining room, none the worse for it.

All the food on this plate is home made, even the mayonnaise.

Today's ride: 88 km (55 miles)
Total: 212 km (132 miles)

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