In Amboise

October 2, 2022

François I and his pal Leonardo

Surveying the scene around our AirBnb apartment this morning, we find that it is in the rather imposing shadow of a castle wall . . . perhaps the Royal Château d'Amboise? It's on our agenda for today.

Castle walls tower over the pretty courtyard of our apartment

On arrival last night there was no working Wifi. I got in touch with our host and am hopeful we can get connected tonight. I'm a few days behind on the journal and want to make up some ground.

It's another cool, wet morning. We keep hoping for warmer days as we move south, but today we layer up again and head out in search of information, bike repair and breakfast.

At the tourist information office we find a route map to Chenonceau castle and combination tickets for two marquee sights here - the Royal Château d'Amboise and Château du Clos Lucé. Just around the corner from the TI we meet Eric at the RoueLib Amboise bike shop. I show him my broken bike lever, and between my weak French and his better English I understand that he is happy to fix it today while we explore the city.

On to breakfast. The people at the TI have pointed us to the Amboise Sunday morning market along the Loire. It's the biggest market we've seen yet and there are plenty of victuals on offer. Check, check and check.

Sunday morning market along the river in Amboise

The old town is fairly compact and its a short walk to the Royal Château d'Amboise, a grand palace that rises over its strategic position on the Loire. It's surrounded by a wall that is definitely the one looming over our apartment. Fun to imagine what the neighborhood around the castle looked like in the 15th century when Charles VIII extensively rebuilt the castle.

We wander through the guard room, great hall and royal bedrooms and out on the roof. Somehow this early Renaissance chateau feels more warm and human than any we've seen so far, not quite as ornate and opulent as Versailles became when Louis XIV took hold of it in the 17th century.

Beautiful gowns, both the one worn by Crown Princess Helene-Louise de Mecklembourg-Schwerin in the portrait and the one on display. I wonder how many hours went into all that lacework.

François I spent his childhood here. It became his royal residence when he succeeded Louis XII as king. His grandchildren, including the kings François II, Charles IX and Henri III, grew up here as well.

Sweeping views of the Loire Valley from the roof of the Minimes Tower

Imagining the King's guards galloping up the entrance to the castle, and what a racket that must have been bouncing off the stone walls

François admired the art and architecture of the Renaissance from his travels in Italy and wanted to bring those influences to France. He invited Italian artists to Amboise, the most famous being Leonardo da Vinci, who spent the last three years of his life here. We learn that Leonardo was buried in the chapel, which is currently closed for restoration.

François appointed Leonardo as his royal painter, engineer and architect and the two became close friends. He gave Leonardo the use of Château du Clos Lucé during this time. It's our next stop, but first, lunch!

At Les 4 Saisons Creperie we both try a galette, a savory buckwheat crepe filled with egg, cheese and vegetables, ham or other ingredients. Pretty tasty. The dish originated in Brittany. I figure Anne of Brittany, who was Queen Consort with Charles VIII and again with his successor Louis XII, had these on the castle menu.

Château du Clos Lucé is 400 meters right up Rue Victor Hugo from the royal chateau. It's a handsome building of brick and tufa stone.

Leonardo's bedroom, where he could see his friend Francois's royal castle from the window.

A cool museum at the Chateau features drawings and models of his inventions and drawings. Many of them were technical designs for military warfare.

Model for an armored tank with machine guns around the perimeter. A fun video in the museum shows a working model trucking down a path, guns a-blazing.

A swing bridge rotates 90-degree to allow boats to pass.

Outside in the garden we walked around full size models of some of the inventions.

Drawings of Leonardo's designs hang from the trees in the garden.

Yesterday one chateau was plenty on our ride to Amboise yesterday, but we have really enjoyed this two chateau day.

There's time to swing by RoueLib Amboise to pick up my bike with its complete set of functioning brakes. I mention to Eric in French that we are riding to Château de Chenonceau tomorrow and he suggests a picnic spot on the way by the Cher River. Sounds swell, and I'm happy for another little success with the language.

Back at our own little palace below the castle, there is still no Wifi. Sigh. I vow to take better notes for whenever I can get back to the journal.

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