June 8, 2018
Flat doesn't mean easy.
Those of you who do a lot of cycling know that the people who design cycle paths aren't always cyclists. In fact the goals of cycle path designers often seem to be at odds with the reasons cyclists want to use paths, namely to get from one place to another. Several times today I had reason to question the bicycle intelligence of the path designers.
The day started well. I finished the previous journal entry and got packed up. Riding across the old port of La Rochelle, I found my first EuroVelo sign easily. Only problem was there was no indication which way to go if one wanted to go north or south, just the names of the suburbs that surround the city. Now I'm not familiar with the suburbs of every French city, and I know from experience that the roads rarely run in the cardinal directions, so it was a bit of a puzzle which way to go. Of course, I chose wrong and after discovering my mistake four kilometers farther on where I did find a sign indicating the longer distance goals, I decided to abandon the velo route and strike out using that old standby, the sun, as a guide. Lucky for me it was a beautiful day and I could find my way. Even better, a local cyclist rode up beside me and we chatted about my tour and she helped me find the way to the south.
Shortly thereafter I was once more back on EV1 and skirting the coast.
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Much of the cycle route is down alley ways behind people's gardens and next to the railway. It's not too scenic, but it is free from traffic, which I suppose is one of the goals of the cycle path designers that most cyclists can agree with. Every so often though, you do find yourself on the shore and the views are superb.
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Along the coast there has been the usual development, and in some places there is a boardwalk or other aménagement to entice people to buy property near the shore.
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At the end of this boardwalk, the trail went back onto side streets and away from the coast, crossing both the autoroute and the railway. Deciding to give Fouras a miss, I stopped at a snack bar for a salade and a crepe. Then I found a sign for Rochefort and I turned off EV1 to have a look at the city. Actually, I wanted to see the transboarder, a cable strung contraption that ferrys vehicles across the Charente river. But as it was two years ago, it was still under repair and not usable. I continued my way along the river to Tonnay Charente where there is another old bridge.
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After passing over the Charente, I quickly got back on the trail which was a long straight railway bed with no pavement, but no major hurdles either. I was alone for the whole way to the marais near Marennes, where the rail-trail ended and a very rough track took the path through the swamp. Navigating the potholes and ruts took all my attention until eventually I was returned to tarred roads that wound among the canals and fields of the marais. The bird life was extraordinary, but I just can't seem to get them to wait long enough for me to unlimber my camera for a picture. I got to Marrennes finally and with one more river to cross I started looking for a room for the night. The bridge over the Seudre has bike lanes, but the little bumps,that separate cyclists from speeding trucks aren't particularly confidence inspiring. Just off the bridge there was an indication for a hotel, so I stopped in for the night.
Today's ride: 91 km (57 miles)
Total: 287 km (178 miles)
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5 years ago
Just kidding, of course. I'm sure there will be some French cuisine coming soon, but even if there isn't, I enjoy reading your stuff about the land of my ancestors.
Greg
5 years ago