Sometimes Turning Around is the Best Kind of Day - Italy Bound with our Recumbent Tandem - CycleBlaze

September 2, 2015

Sometimes Turning Around is the Best Kind of Day

Up early, went down for our first Italian breakfast, bade farewell to our host and a group of 9 German men from a mountain bike club in Germany, went to the extraordinary market day in the village and then promptly came back to the Gasthof to check in again.
The truth was - the rain started in earnest at the market and became quite heavy - and we were feeling tired from the past few days - so why not stay. The price is right, we love the quaint eccentricities of the village and Gasthof, and the breakfast is to die for. So, we were able to get the same room back and settled in for a relaxing day.
Mary Ellen hunkered in and finished reading a book (what a luxury), Barry worked on the journal (when the internet allowed him to) and then when the weather settled down, we went for a walk around Malls, a mountain village full of interesting nooks and crannies. In walking around the village, we were reminded how close we are to Germany and the history of the time when this area was German. Residents in this area and all signage are bilingual - Italian and German. What a great and relaxing day we had and a wonderful introduction to life in Northern Italy.
Now back to breakfast: the excellent carafe of Italian coffee was replenished like magic along with a big pitcher of frothed milk, as well as trays of freshly baked almond croissants, fresh Italian buns, platters of local meat sliced thinly with cheese, preserves, local fruit and museli. If this is 2 star treatment, could it be any better at a higher priced Gasthof? We think that the proprietor loves food and this is reflected in the presentation.
Old buildings like the Gasthof have thick stone walls and are very quiet - and this was helpful as the mountain bikers had a very late and raucous night in the bar. Thankfully the soundproofing of the walls and the loud roar of the river outside our window muffled their good time below.

Breakfast at Gasthof Sonne. We enjoyed waking up to the smell of croissants baking in the kitchen.
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This is the view from our window and just below is a river that is charging down from the mountains. Unfortunately, the clouds are obscuring most of the mountains, but later we got a great view.
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Markus was on a holiday travelling over various passes on his rented motorbike. A fun way to see the mountains for him as he usually rides a bike.
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The mountain bike boys who are members of the same riding club stayed at the Gasthof as well.
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It is a rainy morning and we are on our way to see the market.
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Malls is a maze of curved, narrow streets and towers like this add to the charm of this historic village.
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We never found a direct way to get anywhere, we just kept riding til we found our way.
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Italians love good cheese and the markets had a great selection.
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On the glass case are vacuum packed packages of speck - we love speck - it is sliced super thin like prosciutto and delicious.
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..and this is what speck looks like before it is cut for selling in smaller pieces. We also really like the smoked pepperoni as it travels well on the bike.
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Oh yes, it is so good. Spaghetti sauce with speck is really tasty too.
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Free books on the street on behalf of the library - and they had some good choices in English, but too heavy to carry!
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A sweet shop in Malls - and my German lessons are coming in handy - Obst (fruit), Gemuse (vegetables) and Blumen (flowers). Note that the sign is bilingual - German and Italian.
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The pastry lady had some tempting pastries. Apple strudel is particularly good so far in Italy.
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Town centre of Malls, municipal building Each window is painted with a different time in history with the date and something of significance for that time.
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As we came around the corner, guess who came along? our German tour guide, Herbert Hill. He was off for a ride to see some friends, the final day of his holiday.
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Herbert, a friend we made along the way. Good riding, Herbert!
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Lunch at the local metzgerei - ribs and salad.
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...and then Italian ice cream for dessert. The pistachio was really tasty.
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Whimsical chicken sculptures in the square.
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Dinner, our first night, was in this pizzeria. Barry had pizza and I had spaghetti puttanesca.
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This little river charges through town and the sound creates quite a musical backdrop.
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The proprietor of Gasthof Sonne ran a good hotel and was very kind to us. We are beginning to realize that very few cyclists come through who are fully loaded like we are.
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Gasthof Sonne gave us a good introduction to travelling in Italy.
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Glad we stayed a second day as the weather is better this morning.
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Religious shrines and statues are common on the trail and in this case on a home's outside wall.
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Thought this house in Malls was pretty with the painted mural, flowers and ironwork on the windows.
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The church tower in Malls was visible from everywhere and helped us to keep our bearings.
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Apothekes/Framacia offer such great service and they were very helpful with a problem we needed help with.
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This couple from Hanover Germany are riding the tandem "with no name". They are looking forward to getting a Koga Miyata Twin Traveller someday.
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