Another Blissful Day of Riding Downhill: surrounded by apples, apples and more apples - Italy Bound with our Recumbent Tandem - CycleBlaze

September 4, 2015

Another Blissful Day of Riding Downhill: surrounded by apples, apples and more apples

Camping in Italy is more expensive than we are accustomed to. We are learning to priorize and walk away if it is not for us. Camping Adler in Naturno was a good choice. Waldcamping across the river was recommended but we declined as a spot of grass with the other tenters for 30 plus euros was a bit steep.
At Camping Adler, we had the choice of any available motorhome site, a warm indoor pool/sauna, great facilities and all within the village. The cost here was 25 euros, but it felt better as we liked the campground better.

The only downside of our night in Naturno, was the 2 hour heavy rain/thunder & lightning storm. Later we tried to listen to our audiobook, Child 44, but the roar of the heavy rain drowned out the sound of our book. As the shuttle driver at Reschen Pass told us, "summer is over" and indeed that is what it feels like.

I know we have said this before, but today's ride was extraordinary. We cruised down well maintained paved trails, through countless apple orchards (so close you can touch them),alongside the dynamic Etsch River and enjoyed beautiful vistas and mountains close by. Today has been a highlight of our trip so far.

Approaching Merano, the newly developed portion of the route takes you to a lookout over the city (several 100 m below) and then gives you the thrill of descending car-free down switchbacks to the valley.

We didn't explore Merano as it seemed industrial and too big to take the time to explore. Of course, our impression could be wrong as we didn't give it a chance. The truth is, we couldn't wait to get back on the trail and in the rural/village setting we prefer.

At this point, we are no longer following the Via Claudia Augusta (and haven't fo some time) as we prefer the Etsch Radweg. This route follows the river, is flatter and prettier - whereas the VCA often undulates away from the river and over hills and some gravel areas.
Signage here is either a simple brown or red sign with a bicycle symbol and the name of the next city/village. Interestingly, we have seen little evidence of VCA signage since leaving Reschen Pass area.
Camping again tonight just outside of Bolzano at Camping Moosbauer. We know that bad weather is coming tomorrow, so we are considering our options. The weather app said that rain would start at 7 am, but it rained hard pretty much through the night with thunder thrown in as well. Our tent camping area is gravel and dirt - so it is going to be messy.
The internet connection is very good, so we may stay put and take shelter from the storm that will continue tomorrow.

Riding along we couldn't believe our eyes as we saw the cable car seemingly suspended in space over the ravine. Many hiker and mountain bikers go up by cable car and come back down on their own.
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A sense of humour was used to designate the washrooms.
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Apples are far as the eye can see. We are fortunate to be here during harvest season.
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A typical section of the trail through apple orchards.
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We watched these chickens puzzled by their behaviour - but they were simply settling in on the hot stone step and drying their feathers.
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Competing for the best spot for a sun bath.
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Rows of apple trees trained to grow in a flat shape to optimize the land they use.
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Looking down to Merano
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A whimsical feature of the lookout - a great spot for our lunch.
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On our way down to Merano...
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A grape arbour leads you to the lookout over Merano.
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The grapes are ripe and sweet.
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Seven switchbacks take us down to the valley.
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The fast rushing Etsch River roars alongside us.
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Charmaine RuppoltWhat a nice covered wooden bridge! :)
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7 months ago
At train crossings, you should turn off your vehicle. We appreciate that.
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Waiting at a train crossing - Barry is at the head of the pack.
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And here it is - an Italian train with cars for bicycles, just like the German regional trains.
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Technical sculptures suspended mid air along the trail.
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Can't resist another view of apples and mountains.
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The farmers are known for their ecological approach to farming - we think tat the ladybug is used rather than chemicals.
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We passed several factories that process apples.
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With the financial help of the EU, this modern station has been built to monitor the flow, depth, etc of the river. In the past, 2 men were suspended over the river on a pulley and would lower a measuring device into the water.
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This dam shows the roar and strength of the Etsch River.
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Apple strudel and coffee - yum.
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Bliss for pasta lover Barry - a complete aisle of interesting Italian pasta.
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Found the Italian version of spiritus fuel for our trangia. It's pink, smells a bit vile but works great and is 2.99 for 2 litres.
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Today's ride: 45 km (28 miles)
Total: 883 km (548 miles)

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