Day 88 - Bound for Surakarta, Solo - Unfinished Business

July 27, 2023

Day 88 - Bound for Surakarta, Solo

Well, I opted to get to Surakarta the hard way and it made me suffer. There was roughly 1600 m of climbing in 20 km, an average gradient of 8%. Unfortunately, there were a few flattish bits! I can't decide if I rode it well; I plodded away and got to the top, so I guess that the answer is "yes". It was an absolute beast. And before you start on Black Mountain or other equivalents, don't forget to toss in a handful or two of heat and humidity. I was drenched from start to finish. As usual, I wore my fluro top that weighs nothing when dry. I removed it at the top; it was heavy, dripping.

That climb required everything that I could give. Less than a week ago in Bali, I also climbed over 1500 m but in twice the distance and I found that reasonably easy. This was anything but. It's just too hard to lose heat in the tropics!

The day started early and when I ventured outside of my room there was a package - very neat, heavy. On the ribbon that tied it I read "nasi ayam", chicken and rice. I saw the good folk who work here and, in no time, they rustled up some gado gado - vegetables in peanut sauce on rice, with egg and fritters. They could have said "no" but, in my experience, it's a feature of Asia to go out of your way like this.

Magetan is an attractive town for many reasons - trees, fields, relatively clean and, of course, it's location at the base of Gunung Waru.

A feature of most Indonesian cities and towns is an array of one way streets. Magetan is no exception and I found myself going in the "wrong" direction for a short distance.

It takes a team of people to stop traffic so that children can cross on a pedestrian crossing. That's what you get with an absence of policing.

I found my way and, before even leaving town, I was heading up some very steep stuff. It was if someone was saying "here's a little taster of what's ahead". All the time Gunung Waru stared down from 3265 m above sea level. I was grateful that the pass was at a mere 2000 m.

I took a close look and this looks awfully like a Norfolk Island pine, Araucaria heterophylla.

Gunung Waru - a sacred mountain. My aim is to get to Surakarta, which lies on the plain on the other side of it. Yesterday, when I rode into Magetan, Waru was almost invisible.

I found the country rather attractive, which always makes the cycling easier for me.

There's never a shortage of roadside advertising. You can always see ads for cigarettes but political advertising is never far behind.

The next member of a dynasty. His father, SBY, was a former president and general who served in the "insurrection" in Timor Leste. His brother is also a politician.

I plugged away well and, in no time, had done 12 km and guessed that I had done about half of the ascending. It seemed a good excuse to stop for a tea and a coffee, as is my habit now.

I knew I was making ground when the crops changed: potatoes and strawberries appeared. I thought it a good excuse to have a quick stop to down a punnet.

Australia and Indonesia could unite on the shared love of big things.

As I climbed further I realised there were two roads. I had a look at "Komoot" to make sure I was on the right path and noticed that one road is longer and winds more. This app shows gradients and I could find anything between 10 and 20% on the straight road. No way! I opted to cycle further.

By now, looking back was terrifying but not because of heights.

That's what I've been in! July will be the hottest month ever on the planet, eclipsing June, 2023.

As I ascended I was pleased to see the crops disappear. There were even patches of quite nice forest. It could mean only one thing.

I asked a local to take my photo. That was Ayu, who then invited me to join her and partner, Jiwo, for coffee. Ayu also ordered a rather interesting snack, a combination of ingredients I can't imagine in Australia.

I've been remiss with the red tie photos. I should have done them on ferries and other mountains. I wasn't going to miss this one.

Fried banana (plantain) topped with melted chocolate and grated cheese, like a very mild parmesan. It was rather tasty.

It was time to bid farewell. I zipped up my jacket and got going, past the typical shanties that grace high passes, and walking shrubbery.

Surakarta, usually referred to as Solo, was 50 km away. It was an exhilarating descent. I've no idea how many vehicles of all shapes and sizes I overtook. I was in the traffic jam in an hour and a half.

This is what you call gridlock. There was even a level crossing at one point. What you can't see are scooters coming towards me on the wrong side of the road!

I eventually got into the centre of Surakarta, found somewhere to stay and sat back and read. The blog could wait. I got street food late and took a few happy snaps.

My vendor of the day. His churros in chocolate sauce enticed me.

Today's ride: 89 km (55 miles)
Total: 6,812 km (4,230 miles)

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