Day 66 - A wind along the coast and a climb to Boawae - Unfinished Business

July 5, 2023

Day 66 - A wind along the coast and a climb to Boawae

After a day when I must have done 1500 m of climbing, I'm having an easy one - 40 km along the coast and then up to Boawae that sits 850 m above sea level and about 85 km from Ende. This is the trans-Flores highway for you. It skips from one side of the island to the other, and from the coast to the spine and back again.

I made my day tricky with a late start. There was no excuse because the call to prayer from the next-door mosque woke me early enough.

DASI Guesthouse - cheap and comfortable.

But I've learned the layout of Ende quickly and easily found my way across town to the right bit of coast, passing some interesting art on the way.

A view across the stadium. Ende's coast sits on each side of the volcano.

I marveled at the geographic splendour. It's extraordinary! What a place to cycle!

Looking back on where I ate last night. The white thing is one of those scary ferries.

Ende, the low spot in the centre, from 20 km away.

But then I saw the filth. It occupied my thoughts - what's the answer? Surely, a carrot and stick approach - promote places that clean up their act; crucify those who don't? Should I even be here?

It was at that point that I had the great fortune in meeting Tamas, a touring cyclist from Hungary. We discussed many subjects including garbage. He's as horrified as am I but warned that Lombok and Bali are far worse. Of course they are: more people, more garbage.

Tamas and I, 25 km west of Ende. He's on his way to Australia so I hope we meet again.

By the time we parted I had cycled 25 km and it was midday. I quickly did another 20 km, to the point that the road crossed a bridge and turned inland. It seemed sensible to eat before the climb.

I used my usual strategy on the steep climb: aiming at distances, first up 50 km. I managed that, had a short break and continued. I would have made 55 km if not for Bernard stopping to give me bananas but probably more for a chat.

Bernard - keen to chat; paid for it with bananas.

The climb was steep with no respite for 13 km. I enjoyed it! The road was considerably cleaner but was also relatively quiet. I could focus on climbing and leave other matters to rest.

It was close to 5.30 when I rolled into Boawae, guarded by Gunung Eubalobo, a 2000 m volcano that just arises.

With much help from Cora, I found Wisma Nusa Bunga Homestay, which is both attractive and basic. Don't expect luxuries like a towel or soap.

Wisma Nusa Bunga Homestay targets locals making it hard to escape smoke.

I did a terrifying walk from my abode to find a restaurant. The place is pitch black and the drop from the road designed to turn ankles. I shortened my return, and kept away from the road, by cutting through the church and thus cutting across a switchback.

Today's ride: 88 km (55 miles)
Total: 5,179 km (3,216 miles)

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