Day 118 - a big day north with an ending I didn't need - Unfinished Business

August 26, 2023

Day 118 - a big day north with an ending I didn't need

By 2.30, I had done 105 km and needed a break before the push into Palembang, a city of 1.5 million. I slowed when I saw a statue in a small shady park. Before I stopped, half a dozen fellows, sitting behind the statue were yelling "hello mister". I kept going and pulled into a grubby Alfamart that had a table and chairs. I did another 15 km before the road got busy.

I had to be on my toes coming into town. I had looked up a hotel that seemed good, and easy to find - just go straight ahead for 15 km - 144 for the day. I checked again when I was getting close and everything had changed. I was nowhere near the place and so kept heading north, saw a hotel, booked in, got photographed by 8 people, checked my back wheel, and found a broken spoke. They're all at the end of their lives and I need more. But, what I need most is to stop being a zoo exhibit. I walked across the road for food and saw Masakan Padang. I walked around the corner and had nasi goreng - fried rice. This really was fried rice. It may have had a sniff of garlic but it certainly didn't have a sniff of imagination. It was here that I discovered that I had run out of internet even though I put money on my phone recently. When the fan gets dirty, it gets really dirty!

I'd had a pretty good day, other than breakfast- partly cooked noodles topped with a partly cooked egg. This was never going to get me anywhere so I stopped almost immediately for some gorengan - deep fried snacks, including banana and savoury morsels.

I was determined to keep at it today, because everything suggested that I needed to do 130 km. Thus, I stopped only for photographs and to toss down food and water. The surface was good so I made good time. There were not many hills and so I didn't strike too many problems with gear changes.

Speaking of the gear-changing problem, Graham Smith was the sole person brave enough to play his cards. He provides a logical and witty response. But, unfortunately he's wrong and the plate of Masakan Padang will not be his. As it turns out, the problem has nothing to do with the bike and instead is explained by thermal physiology and physics. One of the ways we lose heat is by evaporative cooling. The humidity in the tropics hinders evaporation but you can counter this by increasing air flow. I dry out a bit going downhill and can regulate evaporation when cycling on the flat, by picking a speed whereby evaporation matches the excretion of sweat. Cycling uphill is a different matter. Even at 12 kmh, sweat production greatly exceeds evaporation and I am soon drenched. My hands are dripping and cannot grip the shifter tightly enough to change gears. It's only when my hand is dry that I realise the shifting is normal. The solution is to attach a piece of cloth to the shifter with a cable-tie.

It was another overcast but bright day that I find nearly impossible to photograph with a phone. You need to get in close; lanscapes are horrible. Also, I need a viewfinder. Alas, I tried to get a few shots of the scenery along the way, but also stopped at a few vendors.

I hadn't gone far when I met the congestion and chaos of a market. My fruit supply was running low and so I stocked up.

This was a surprise. I wouldn't want to be a goat here.

Truck of the day. No overloaded truck has caused more chaos in less time.

There's always a good selection of fruit, but I just don't see many or any variety of vegetables.

My fruit vendor - mandarins, mango and bananas. I have 9.5 serves of fruit and 0.5 serves of vegetables per day.

Soon I was among plantations once again, but it's not obvious because there's usually pretty thick roadside vegetation. But don't expect shade; the sun is directly above all day so it's only large canopies sprawling across the road that provide a dark spot.

I thought as I cycled that my trip might be drawing to a close. At the start of the day, I had about 1000 km to go; by the end I had less than 900, but I also needed spokes. Anyway, I decided to make a better effort sampling from vendors and today had another durian and also a sugarcane drink.

Before I had the sugarcane drink I came upon this strange statue of a soldier with a waist-belt loaded with grenades wielding a gun. Due to the bright light, it was very hard to eliminate the raised gun and I managed to decapitate him; my response to the statue.

A simple setup - juicer and ice bucket. I saved a plastic cup by using my own. This really confused the poor fellow.

There's always the occasional village and in one I saw a group of young cyclists. This was refreshing because I don't see many cyclists. I don't think it's a "danger thing". I see youngsters cycling on busy roads. It's something I can't explain other than to say that the poor cycle; they can't afford a motorcycle, I guess. Anyway, these cyclists were ecstatic to see a loaded tourer, gave me the thumbs up and wanted their photo taken.

As I entered Kayu Agung, I saw a sculpture that appealed. It's the impossible photograph - dark grey in bright tropical light. Selamet datang - wecome. I even found some peaceful shade for a quick stop.

One interesting thing in South Sumatra is the lack of bamboo due, I'm sure, to the mass clearing for plantations. I'm now seeing piles of timber that's used for scaffolding in place of bamboo. Now, that's dodgy.

I'd cross the river a few times as I got closer to Palembang. I always stop to peer over. Bridges provide a great vantage point and usually something interesting.

Remember the footpath rule: don't go on them; don't think about going on them. Get on the road! This footpath contained massive holes, where covers were missing.

Coming into Palembang I came to a village selling crackers. The raw ones were drying. Bags of fried crackers hung for sale. I'm unsure what they're made from but I suspect cassava.

Let me leave you today with a few photos of mosques, all on the western side of the road in the first 5 km of today's ride. The preacher warming up outside would applaud me!

Today's ride: 147 km (91 miles)
Total: 8,477 km (5,264 miles)

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Graham SmithPosting this from a lunch stop at the Rose Garden Cafe in Cowra. I recall you were near here only 113 or so days ago.

The Lachlan Valley is now a patchwork of very bright green & gold as the canola, cereal crops and lucerne enjoy the warmth after recent rain.

Well ridden to reach Palembang so quickly. You must almost be able to see shiny Singapore from there on a clear day.

All the best with the spoke situation. Hopefully they’ll hold together for the finalé.
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8 months ago

Ian WallisTo Graham SmithThanks Graham, I should be able to sort it. The rim seems OK, but failure can happen quickly. That would beat me! I thought having a few spare spokes was enough!
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8 months ago