June 2, 2025
Poopó
It took quite a while to get going this morning. We didn't want to rush off because by nine o'clock it was still only just above zero. At half past nine we eventually loaded up the bikes and we're just about to head off when Leigh noticed her rear tyre was flat. The usual cause - a piece of wire from truck tyre debris.
Once that was sorted out we wasted another half an hour looking for an open branch of Banco Union who handle Western Union transfers. No luck.
The road was busy but in fair condition until the seven kilometer mark. Here it became apparent that the replacement tube I had fitted was also slowly deflating, so I pumped it up.
At the twelve kilometer mark we hit the roadworks of which Katherine had warned us. Not far into the dust and chaos Leigh's rear tyre deflated completely. Second replacement tube fitted. But not before a more thorough inspection of the tyre, removing two more pieces of wire. I suspect these were all picked up on the way into Oruro two days ago when we had a hard time avoiding bits of tyre debris.
The roadworks continued until the 27 kilometer mark. The surface of the temporary road wasn't too bad but the high volume of traffic, mostly trucks and busses, made it unpleasant. By the time we reached the end of the roadworks we were coated in fine dust.
The Altiplano south of Oruro is quite different to what we have experienced so far. It is much flatter and drier with large areas of salt encrusted soil, not quite salt pans but not far off.
About a quarter to four we eventually rolled into the small mining town of Poopó and checked into the Hotel Turistico. Basic but clean and the suicide shower was hot (so often they are barely lukewarm).
Evening chores included patching two tubes. Supper was three portions of Pollo Broaster (fried crumbed chicken pieces) along with the usual rice and a few half cooked chips. Food remains a challenge in the rural towns of Bolivia. At least we ate well in Oruro.
Tomorrow we head for Challapata.
Today's ride: 59 km (37 miles)
Total: 1,006 km (625 miles)
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If you didn't already know this trick, I hope it helps.
1 week ago
1 week ago