To Este, Italy

July 6, 2025

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I've done something and deleted the map and I can't get it back. I've tried going through the map inserting process again and it just won't go. Look at that - it will go below text. Go figure. This looks messy, but it works after a fashion.

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We've gotten into the habit of setting the alarm for 7 AM. Oren and I used to hit the road at 7! Look at how relaxed I am now. Riding shorter/easier miles does have an advantage. We seem to get on the road daily about 9 AM. I had a nice chat this morning with the reception lady, who speaks excellent English. Something I haven't mentioned here recently is language/greetings. I get quite a few stares, with my odd bicycle. I try to smile and greet people in return. In Italy, my buongiorno has a poor return rate. I did notice some people replied, giorno, so I tried that. No, not so much. Some people said ciao. When I started greeting people with ciao, my return greeting rate went way up. Here was my chance to ask an Italian English speaker what does ciao mean, exactly. I thought it was goodbye, but it also seems to be hello. Elena, at our agri turismo told me ciao, ciao. Which is fun to say - chow, chow. I had one woman tell me ciao wow at my bicycle. End of that story is the reception lady said ciao is an informal way to greet people. Google tells me the double ciao is said in goodbye.

We were out the door at 9 AM, hoping to get at least half of our miles in before the rain started. Jacinto said he didn't care if it rained, at least it was warm. True. But I'd rather be dry also! It was overcast all day, which helped keep the heat down.

Today we traveled through farm country. We saw: milo, tomatoes, apples (haven't seen them for awhile), cantaloupe, wheat. I'm sure I'm forgetting other crops. We did go through small towns, but everything was quiet. Perhaps because it's Sunday.

We felt a few sprinkles, right at the halfway point. I rode even faster. Jacinto asked if I wanted to stop for ice. No! Let's keep going. Finally at mile 40, my desire for ice was larger than my distaste for getting wet. We stopped at a grocery. It looked very empty, but the front door was open. There was a reason. They closed at 1 PM, and it was 1:05.

We continued on. We discussed the chances of getting food. Jacinto has adopted the French version of eating before riding - he has coffee and a croissant in the morning and calls it good. He says that's enough for this flat territory. But when he gets to Stelvio, he wants a big breakfast!

As we reached the edge of Este, we saw a cafe that was open (and had food!). We agreed to eat, because who knew if we would get food later. We went with the safe paninis, and even got two to go, in case there wasn't anything open tonight.

I was most impressed with the castle that dominated the view as we got closer to the Hotel Beatrice. How did I miss this one? It has complete walls and looks stunning. I did some research. In 1385 the Marquis raised the taxes on the peasants. When they rallied in protest, he blamed the taxes on his financial advisor, and sent the man outside. The peasants proceeded to tear him limb from limb! This worried the Marquis, and he built the castle with a moot and three drawbridges, so he could defend himself should the peasants ever attack him. The castle was severely damaged during WWII, but was restored.

Can you see I still have a castle thing going on?

Even though we had sandwiches for dinner, we walked to a Chinese restaurant. Jacinto asked for his meal extra picante - which took bringing one of the young cooks out of the back. He spoke English. They got a kick out of Jacinto's - extra, extra description. I also ordered a limoncello - I made note of Scott's sadness over not being able to drink limoncello now. I have to say - it tastes like cough syrup to me. I'm a one and done. Sorry, Scott. I tried.

I have great hopes the weather will follow the forecast, which is to rain all night, and clear in the morning. We have two ferries to catch on our way to Venice. There's a giant side story with plenty of research on Venice. Here's some information for those who might follow. Bicycles are allowed only in a small area of Venice, after you cross over the bridge. There are bicycle lockers for rent in that area. I had my doubts that my 8 foot long bicycle would fit. We could get a room at one of the few hotels where bicycles are allowed, and store our bikes there. Or, try an airbnb. Then I started thinking about the traffic heading to Venice. It probably wouldn't be enjoyable riding. I switched gears and decided to come into Venice from the ocean side. We are now staying in Lido, on the island. Which means we will have to take the ferry into Venice also. I'm not looking forward to the anticipated crowds, but I read Anne Mather's journal from last week that they found Venice delightfully empty. I certainly hope we have the same experience. Venice is Jacinto's one must see of the trip. Then we head roughly north to Munich, roughly on the Via Claudia Augusta.

I don't know why the strange text. Something is wrong with this day's entry and I don't know how to fix it.

Side note - the pavement has been much improved the past two days. Good news!

Our included breakfast this morning had all of the components compactly offered. We were the only ones there and there was one more table set.

We are certainly in an area of interesting buildings besides churches.

I wonder what the neighbors think of this house. There seemed to be a wheel theme.

Be sure to look up. Rooflines can be attractive also.

Having statues in the yard isn’t enough. Put them on the roof!

By the time I decided the theme of the day was lions, I had already passed a few.

I don’t think I’m stoppIng at three castles.

It has a corner tower. It must be at least a fort.

I’m reasonably sure this is a mailbox. Why be boring?

Lots of water. We will be in Venice tomorrow.

A WWI memorial. Every town has memorials with far too many names listed.

This church had an addition, but it looks attractive.

Lunch stop. We went with the safe panini for 6.50 E.

My last lion photo for the day. In Estes.

Our bedroom at the Beatrice. It is located right next to the castle. You can see Jacinto checking out the AC. That is the very first thing he does in every room. If the AC works, he's happy.

Here is our bedroom window view. I love it.

Today's ride: 50 miles (80 km)
Total: 1,091 miles (1,756 km)

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Tricia GrahamA great choice to approach Venice from the Lido side. One important note that from Lido you need to catch the car ferry. This is further around the waterfront than the regular ones (they don’t take bikes). Prob less than a kilometre and takes you to the main harbour near the end of the causeway
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2 weeks ago

Kelly IniguezTo Tricia GrahamWe are looking at ferry routes as we speak! We are not taking the bikes to Venice (the whole storage issue with my long bike). Instead we are leaving the bikes in Lido at the hotel, and will go to Venice on foot.

I hope we can figure out the ferry terminal location in Chiaggio without too much trouble (language). I'm sure we will, eventually.
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2 weeks ago

Tricia GrahamTo Kelly IniguezFinding the ferry at Chicago is no problem at all and it is a big ferry. Riding on those outer islands is really great. Sounds as if yo are continuing on towards Trieste on that side of the lagoon. A good idea as the ride over the causeway is certainly not pleasant. You will have one more ferry crossing. It is on a small ferry but they will take bikes. Lido is a great place to stay
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2 weeks ago

Anne MathersI hope you enjoy Venice, regardless of the crowds. Remember, it’s concert season and there will be some fabulous ones this week to take in. They will draw the crowds, but do check them out, and if possible, attend one of them in St. Marks Square. You will make some lifetime memories!
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2 weeks ago

marilyn swettToo bad you didn't like your limoncello. We love it and have even attended a class on how to make your own. It takes a LOT of lemons!
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2 weeks ago