To Cremona, Italy

July 3, 2025

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We didn't finish our multi course dinner until 9:30 last night. Do you think we were hungry this morning. Jacinto rode European style - on coffee and a croissant! I had fruit and yogurt with a croissant. Neither of us ate protein. We took the eggs and sausage to go, at Elena's (host) suggestion.

Today was our longest mile day of the trip. The plus side is how flat it is, so we should be able to keep up a good speed, with airflow, to combat the heat.

We didn't leave until 9 AM. We had 1.5 miles of frolicking downhill, and then were stopped by tree trimmers. There was no getting past them. One woman in a car was yelling all sorts of insults out the window. All I could understand was, "Ignorante". The tone of voice was enough to understand she wasn't happy. The worker did not reply in kind. We dropped down into the granny and slowly went back up to where we started. The good thing was we hadn't gone far. It added three miles to our already long day.

Our first miles were pleasant, passing the vineyards, milo fields, and hay fields. Casteggio itself was a larger town than I imagined. A large majority of our day was on busy roads that were in terrible shape. Jacinto said he thought he was bicycling in Mexico. That's saying something! Semi traffic was heavy. It was another get 'er done sort of day. The times we were routed into the country were especially enjoyed. We went through a number of towns. I told Jacinto we could get there much sooner if we could just ride, as oppose to navigate. I wonder how many roundabouts we rode today?

We stopped before mile 20 for ice. It was already quite warm. I had seen a sign at 9 AM for 29C temperature. 9 AM! Jacinto bought two bags of ice. He poured some water out of his CamelBak to use it all. My ice melted almost right away. I didn't even consider bringing a Stainless bottle this trip. It wasn't that I rejected the idea, I didn't even consider it. Possibly we can find one tomorrow.

As long as we kept moving, I felt cool enough. I had been communicating with our host, as he needed to meet us at the apartment. The tree trimming detour slowed us down. I estimated we would arrive at 3 PM, and we were out front at 3:05. That's a good estimate, for riding 60 miles!

We could see a narrow door. We had a ground floor apartment. How could this possibly work? It was one of those surprise European set ups. You go in the door, into a courtyard, and there's all kinds of stuff once you get in there. Our bikes are in the courtyard. Our apartment has ice cold AC. Hurray! It doesn't have a comfy spot to sit. We can't even sit up in the bed, because it has storage units built low over the head area. Jacinto has already thumped his head. He won't do that again.

We have a washer/dryer unit. It takes 3 hours to run the entire cycle. I had all of my clothes, and I do mean all, in the washer. We had a 7 PM reservation for dinner. What to do? I ended up wearing a jacket and my rain pants to dinner. 89 degrees! We were seated on the patio. The owner aimed a fan at me without me saying a word. He was probably thinking I'm a crazy American.

We had Greek food. Lamb. It was tasty. We might eat there again. Jacinto went walking to the store for ice cream and breakfast stuff. He was going to buy beer, but it was after 9 PM, and beer sales aren't allowed.

I do not have an alarm set for tomorrow! I love layover days - especially with good AC. 95 degrees for a high tomorrow. There's a Stradivarius museum just a few blocks from us. Jacinto has zero interest. There's a cathedral. He says one thing he's not doing is going for a ride. The city was slow navigating, and the roads are in too bad of condition for extra riding. Plus, there's no climbing here! Why go for a ride if you can't climb?

Leaving the Casa Angelina, an agri tourismo. It was a favorite stay of the trip. 170 E for an air conditioned room, multi course dinner with drinks, and a large breakfast.

We had 1.5 rollicking downhill miles,only to be turned around by a tree trimming crew. 30feet of walking on the side and we would be on our way. No go. Back up the 210 foot we went.

The visual isn’t quite there. This was a steep hill.

Churches are more frequent and more elaborate.

Shark swimming in the center of a roundabout.

There’s a tower. They must mean a castle is near?

We aren’t used to seeing so much water. Wait until we get to Venice.

Isn’t this a handsome fellow? He was on the end of a bridge.

I call this the dragon house. The more I looked, the more I saw.

There were many impressive churches today.

They are almost always the most eye catching buildings around.

I used google lens to find out details on this striking building. It was built in 1880 and is part of a family villa. There’s no religious connection. It is the Minareto di Picenengo.

We have a day off in Cremona, and splurged on an apartment. It has a full refrigerator! Best of all there’s a washer/dryer. It’s one unit. A complete cycle takes three hours!

This was my birthday dinner. Lamb at a Greek restaurant.

Today's ride: 61 miles (98 km)
Total: 998 miles (1,606 km)

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Eva WaltersHappy Birthday Kelly! Al and I are enjoying your journal and look forward to reading it every day. I was especially impressed with your one-day ascent of the Pyrenees. It was just about a year ago that we saw you and Jacinto on your way to Nelson from the Kootenay Lake ferry here in British Columbia. You guys do get around!
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3 weeks ago

Amber StarfireHappy Birthday! I am traveling vicariously through you. Maybe someday I, too, will bicycle through this part of Europe.
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3 weeks ago

Kelly IniguezTo Amber StarfireAmber,

We would recommend a European bicycle ride. I have friends who just rented high end road bikes in one city, and returned them in another. E bikes are also a choice.

Even though the dollar is weak right now, prices are still similar to home. Lodging is perhaps cheaper.
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3 weeks ago

Kelly IniguezTo Eva WaltersRunning into you and Al was a favorite memory of the trip. Plus, you kept me updated on the dairy. I still like glass bottle milk. I get it in Tucson. The actual is in Phoenix. IDK why the appeal is so big for me.

Thanks for following along.
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3 weeks ago

Kirsten KaarsooHappy Birthday Kelly your Greek meal looks delicious.
Those washer dryer combos are something. I always just use the shortest washing cycle then dry things on a rack. Most apartments in Europe have a drying rack, with heat we have been having everything is dry the next morning..
When Lyle and I first moved to Scotland I had a washer with 26 cycles and no instructions! ( long before internet so I couldn’t google them). The first load I did I picked universal wash and next thing I knew steam was coming out of the washer as it was boiling my clothes. It took two hours and there was no drying cycle! It took awhile to figure that machine out. But it did provide a story.
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3 weeks ago

Scott AndersonHappy Birthday! I love the story of your perfect birthday attire for the day. And Holy Cremona! What a great spot for your layover day.
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3 weeks ago

marilyn swettHappy Birthday Kelly! Sounds like you guys are having quite the adventure.
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3 weeks ago

Gregory GarceauHappy belated birthday. I had forgotten that you and I share the same birthdate. I think I mentioned that to you in a different journal comment years ago. Anyway, as I'm catching up on this journal, it was nice to see you had a good day.
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2 weeks ago

Kelly IniguezTo Kirsten KaarsooThere is certainly a learning curve to all sorts of aspects of touring and visiting other countries!
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2 weeks ago

Kelly IniguezTo Gregory GarceauI'm sure I knew/forgot also! I hope you ate cake AND ice cream!
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2 weeks ago