It was another beautiful day in Andalusia – the winds of a few days ago had slackened to a gentle breeze and the sun was shining in a clear blue sky. I bade farewell to Beltran, who would only accept my repeated words of gratitude as repayment for his extra effort in rescuing me from a very long walk on a lonely highway. All I can offer in return is a recommendation for those passing through Montellano - Hotel Andalou, owned and managed by a kind and generous man.
It was not far to Utrera and I’d planned a zig-zag route to take advantage of what promised to be small roads favored by other cyclists. And I was not disappointed. The ratio of cyclists to cars was at least 5:1 through much of the route – single riders, small groups, large pelotons – I saw them all. The landscape continued to be predominately agrarian, with the fields displaying the variety of contours, patterns and hues of early spring. I took a short detour through the small town of El Coronil, where I witnessed balconies decorated with banners in honor of Semana Santa, which begins tomorrow.
Vivien George seemed to be enjoying the day as much as I was – easy riding through a rolling landscape that flattened as I neared Utrera. The gears/shifting was pretty smooth though the clicking was back it was intermittent, mostly when climbing in lower gears. I was a still concerned as to how the various adjustments might have affected the overall alignment of the drive train, so was eager to get her checked over Seville, where I arrive tomorrow. Thus, I was delighted to meet Brian about six miles outside Utrera.
An American living in Seville where he teaches English, Brian was on his way to Ronda to escape the craziness of Seville during Semana Santa. We talked of many things, but most importantly he gave me a recommendation for a good bike shop in Seville, Bici Activa, that was run by an English chap named Iain. My research of Seville bike shops had put Bici Activa on the short list of possibilities, but an English speaking mechanic with a personal recommendation moved it right to the top. And it would open at 10 am on Monday morning. I rode off to Utrera feeling much relieved about getting Vivien George in top working order.
I arrived in Utrera about half-past one and stopped for tapas at a nearby café before checking in. After cleaning up, I headed for the train station. When I rescheduled my tour of Andalusia to this spring, I shortened the length of the tour and modified many of the routes. I went over my plans with Scott Anderson in January, when visiting he and Rachael in Tucson. Always an excellent and willing source for advice on route planning, Scott mentioned the commuter rail system (Cercanías) that operates in Seville as well as other cities in Spain. And, oh yes, they take bikes. Given the questionable health of Vivien George as well as the throng of people expected to be in Seville for Palm Sunday, it seemed like a train ride to Seville might be a good idea. I got the needed info on the next day’s schedule and did a quick tour of Utrera before heading back to the hotel for a nap.
Brian, who offered good advice on his way to Ronda
Keith AdamsThat face seems to have a permanently frozen expression of mixed surprise and mildly worried consternation. Reply to this comment 1 year ago
I found Utrera to be a very comfortable place, not too touristy but a lived-in place where children play ball and ride bikes in the street. I had dinner at a restaurant recommended by the hotel –La Abuela María - a wonderful place tucked away on a side street. The door was ajar but the place was empty when I arrived just after the 8 pm opening time, and a staff person did not arrive to actually seat me for another ten minutes. Though she spoke little English, she was extremely nice and helpful. On her recommendation, I ordered carrillada, the house specialty. It was my first time eating beef cheeks, and they were heavenly!
The terrace of La Abuela María restaurant, where I was the only diner during my entire meal. It seems people don't usually start coming in until 9:30, and they weren't expecting many this night as everyone would be home resting for the all-day parties tomorrow!
