Our destination for today was Roussillon, which sits perched on a hilltop overlooking ochre quarries that were originally mined more than two centuries ago. A short day was planned in order that we arrive with plenty of time to explore the ochre-hued town and cliff faces of the now abandoned mines. The plan also left a skosh of time for very brief “look-see” in Bonnieux.
My inclination when visiting small towns in Europe is to always head up, and so I did. A series of stone steps comprising the Rue des Pénitents Blancs ascended to a terrace with views down to Bonnieux and across the Luberon plateau. Climbing further, a second set of stairs led to the 12th century Haute Église, and even more expansive views down the Luberon range. I was thankful I’d not had to walk on my knees or carry my bike up the stairs, but the descent required a bit of concentration and holding on to the railing lest the cleats on my bike shoes slip on steps worn smooth over the centuries. I made it down without any more spills or scrapes. And I want to that all those who’ve expressed concern/well wishes about my knee and reassure everyone that healing is progressing and, except for a little stiffness, all seems fine.
Morning sun casts a glow on the nearby town of Lacoste
Scott AndersonI don’t think I knew you could see Ventoux from here. Maybe the conditions weren’t right or I’ve just never gone high enough in the village. Reply to this comment 11 months ago
We took a round-about way to Roussillon, first heading east to Apt along the small lanes of the Luberon cycle way. In contrast to yesterday, the landscape was open, with views across the valley and the constant presence of Mont Ventoux rising in the distance. After dropping down into Apt, we found wonderful little bakery for sandwiches and desert. It had a small dining room in an adjacent storefront, the perfect place to savor our gooey desserts – apricot and pistachio tarts for Janos and me while Suzanne indulged her citrus cravings with a nice lemon merengue tart.
A short climb out of Apt took us through Gargas and onto a small road that wound past the Mines de Broux, a 19th century ochre mine. The site is now a tourist attraction, with guided tours into the underground complex of tunnels. It was closed for tours today, but site was open for those like us who wanted to walk around the exterior and admire the soaring ochre rock faces. Colors of a different hue exploded on the landscape just before the final approach to Roussillon – carpets of yellow and red, canola and poppies. We may be early for the lavender bloom, but it is a great year for poppies in Provence.
The hotel gave us two recommendations for dinner – one was full, the other closed – but Suzanne booked us a table in the fabulous Restaurant David. It is a bit upscale, with thick cloth napkins and views of the ochre towers from every seat – either directly through the window, or indirectly on mirrors mounted on the opposite wall. The menu had just three items each for entrée, main, and desert – we skipped the entrées but explored the full range of main and desert offerings – fish and chocolate for Janos, lamb and a citrus medley for Suzanne, and pork and rhubarb crisp for me. My cursory descriptions do a great disservice to the menu, and I’m not good at taking food photos. Let’s just say that everything I ate was outstanding – definitely the best meal since I’ve been back in Europe.
