To/In Nyons

May 9, 2023 to May 10, 2023

Today’s ride took me north through Les Baronnies, “a country of medium mountains with tormented relief.” My destination was Nyons, where I would stay two nights and have the option of a day ride or rest day tomorrow. The direct route to Nyons was a mere ten miles, so I had plotted a more circuitous route that took me further east into the “tormented relief” before swinging back down to Nyons.

It was market day in Vaison-La-Romaine and the small streets of the village were lined with wares – edible, wearable, usable, and just plain fun. My progress through the crowd was slow, taking care not to bump up against those who suddenly stop to ponder a purchase of fresh strawberries or white asparagus. With both a medieval village and an interesting “newer town”, warranted more time than I had to share. Fortunately, Lyle and Kirsten spent a day exploring the town and you can read their write up here.

The ride began with a few flat miles through vineyards before a short climb to the small commune of Puyméras, a village with a sense of humor and a nice church. I began to feel sluggish as I continued on up to Pigeon, the climbs of the last few days starting to take their toll. It was a great downhill from Pigeon to Mirabel-aux-Baronnies where I stopped for a rest and chatted up three Montreal cyclists touring the area with a group of thirty Canadians. I’d stopped just outside a bakery, a fact I realized five minutes before it closed – giving me just enough time to snatch up one of their last chicken sandwiches.

The vineyards and hillsides of Les Baronnies

Warning to those entering the village of Puyméras, for there are bell towers that ring regularly, roosters who crow early, clocks that give you the hour, and farmers who work to give you food. If you can't support these, you are in the wrong place.

Linda, Melanie and Lisette - Canadian cyclists from Montreal

Over lunch, I explored options for bypassing a second loop through the Baronnies and shortening my route to Nyons. I texted my host regarding an earlier check-in, and on receiving an affirmative response I made a bee-line for Nyons, following the Eygues River into town. I had a great one-bedroom apartment for two nights, in an older building near the heart of downtown. I spread out over the two rooms, had a long happy birthday chat with my sister, ordered take-out pizza, and enjoyed a relaxed evening “at home.”

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May 10, In Nyons

It was nice to wake up in a large apartment and linger a bit over coffee and puzzles as I considered my plans for the day. It was a blue sky, sunshine day (great for cycling), with cold, strong winds (not great for cycling) and predictions for storms over the next few days. My head urged me to take advantage of the sunshine, but I was persuaded by cold winds and tired legs to take a rest day and make some progress on the journal.

I spent a somewhat lazy morning catching up on the news and journaling before taking lunch at D'un Goût à l'Autre, one of Nyons best-rated restaurants. The interior was full, but I enjoyed a very fine meal of artichokes and swordfish while sitting outside in the brisk air. Afterwards I explored a bit of the town, wandering up to the medieval bridge over the Eygues where I met Pat and Jerry, a delightful couple from Cleveland who had the winning bid at a charity event for a weeklong stay at a house in Nyons. Jerry had his Brompton in tow, an instant conversation opener, and we spent about twenty minutes covering a wide-range of topics standing at the crest of the bridge.

Feeling a bit sluggish and moving at a snail's pace

Pont de l’Europe, a medieval bridge in Nyons

Looking down the Eygues River from Pont de l’Europe

With Pat, Jerry and Jerry's Brompton on the Pont de l’Europe

My brief tour of the town finished with a stop at the Carrefour to pick up some provisions. By the end of the day I was stocked up and well rested for the final stage of my tour through Southern France.

Today's ride: 15 miles (24 km)
Total: 1,045 miles (1,682 km)

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