My stay in Cordoba was too brief and the limited time I had to explore the city was complicated by the events of Easter Sunday and the fact that my cough was not going away. I did venture forth to visit some of the great historical features that the city offers, and was compelled to wrap up Semana Santa with a final Paso. In between, I rested, had nice long conversations with my sister and Team Anderson, and managed to eat two great and substantive meals. I leave tomorrow morning for the last stretch of the tour, due to arrive back in Granada one week from today.
It was a glorious day, a clear sky with temperatures warming but not hot. For me, it began with a morning stroll across the Roman Bridge, which spans the Río Guadalquivir. I lingered on the bridge, taking my time to watch herons hopping from rock to rock in search of food, or perhaps find the perfect spot to bask in the morning sun. As I crossed to the south side of the bridge, the reflections of Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba and the arched bridge were stunning, causing me to pause and reflect on the historical events and conflicts that have taken place here. And once again I was thankful for all that had transpired to bring me to this place.
Cordoba, as seen from the Roman Bridge, looking down river
Although I had about reached my fill of processions, it would be remiss not to close out Semana Santa in Andalusia with an Easter Sunday Paso. However, I did not want to be among the throng of onlookers at the nearby Mezquita-Catedral, so I checked with the hotel for advice on the best time and place for viewing the procession. And that is how I found myself at the Roman Temple of Cordoba, built during the latter half of the 1st century. Although the Paso was due to arrive soon, there were only a few people gathered about and I was able to secure a prime spot – a slab bench where I could sit while waiting and stand when the procession passed. As the crowd slowly arrived, it was made up largely of local residents and their families, reminiscent of those I’d seen in the smaller cities over the past week. It is these community celebrations that I will remember as the heart of Semana Santa.
While the crowd may have had a “home town” feel, the procession itself was grander than those I’d previously experienced. For one, there was a lot more gold – carried on crosses and candles as well as worn by the Penitents. There were more church elders in various clerical garb and scores of children in gold capes, carrying baskets with supplies to assist the Penitents, such as relighting a candle that had accidentally blown out. But there was only a single Paso, the Virgin Mary adorned in white and gold carried on a Paso listing to the left. It all seemed a bit of a letdown. I’d been expecting that the week-long celebrations of Semana Santa would build toward today, the day of Christ’s Resurrection. Certainly there was more pomp and glitter in the procession itself, but the day did not have the energy I'd felt last week on Palm Sunday.
One of my Moroccan cycling buddies has also been touring through Andalusia and recommended a good eatery along the river – Amaltea. I stopped in for lunch, without a reservation, and though fully booked they offered me a large high-top that seemed better suited for drinks rather than dining. But I was happy to have a seat, and happier still with the meal – a quinotto, a mash-up quinoa and risotto that was both healthy and delicious. After retreating to my hotel for a delightful few hours of rest and afternoon phone calls, I went out to have a look at the Mezquita-Catedral de Córdoba, the Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba, or officially the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Assumption. The current Cathedral was constructed on the site of the Great Mosque of Cordoba and thus retains its hyphenated name - though I always heard it referred to as the Mosque rather than the Cathedral. Unfortunately for me, the Mosque-Cathedral was closed due to Semana Santa. However, I did learn that it would be open, free of charge, tomorrow morning between 8:30-9:30.
Construction of Great Mosque began in 785, when Córdoba was the capital of Muslim region of al-Andalus. In 1236, Córdoba was captured by the Catholic forces of King Ferdinand III, and the mosque was converted to a cathedral. Today, it retains distinctive architectural features of both histories. I arrived at the Mosque-Cathedral at 9 am and was waved inside by the guard. The interior was dimly lit, but I could still appreciate the splendor of the original section of the interior, with row after row of columns with distinctive red and white double-tiered arches. These innovative but somewhat simple designs were in marked contrast to the soaring and ornate features of the Renaissance Cathedral. The juxtaposition of Muslim and Catholic architecture and iconography was somewhat unsettling, and added to my appreciation of Andalusia as a land of two worlds, each which has a very strong religious foundation.
Kathleen JonesAs someone who was also raised Catholic, I find this mind-bending too. I think I prefer the Muslim aesthetic. I had no idea Córdoba had this mosque-cathedral. Reply to this comment 1 year ago
It’s probable that my perspective on Andalusia thus far has been influenced both by my prior trip to Morocco and by the near constant celebrations of Semana Santa over the last week, the latter of which recalled a childhood spent awash in the teachings of the Catholic Church. Religion is not a topic for a cycling blog, but cycle touring can offer opportunities for renewed understanding of historical events and conflicts, which may inform how we perceive conflicts in the modern world, religious or otherwise.
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Steve Miller/GrampiesIt is now a week later and we really hope your "cold" has improved and therefore your ability to really enjoy your travels. We look forward to reading your updated entries when you get time and strength. Reply to this comment 1 year ago
