An Afternoon Along the Seine

March 3, 2023

Today I spent a splendid afternoon walking along the Seine. The best news was that I had no stumbles or falls – no recurrence of sprained ankles, black eyes, bruised ribs or other mishaps that have delayed or canceled previous tours. In fact it was a most glorious afternoon, one filled with both long-standing traditions and unexpected delights.

It was just past noon when I left the house, clad in my puffer hoody and gloves to stave off the chill in the air. I took the Metro to the Musée d’Orsay, planning to walk along the Seine towards Notre Dame and assess progress on the Cathedral’s renovations. It’s a walk I do at least once every time I’m in Paris, often detouring through the Tuileries Garden and/or stopping by the Louvre.

Early spring is one of my favorite times in Paris - tourist numbers are reduced and the air is crisp with anticipation. As I made my way upriver, the sun erased the morning chill and brought the joy of spring to all those fortunate souls experiencing Paris on this fine day.

Buskers outside Musée d'Orsay had folks smiling and swaying to the sweet sounds of jazz

Crossing the Seine near Musée d'Orsay, looking downriver towards the Grand Palais

I'll let the avian aficionados identify this one

After a few chilly days, people are happy to just laze at the waters edge and bask in the afternoon sun

The day was full of people capturing their moments in Paris

One of the delightful surprises of the day was stumbling across L’Art Urbaine en Bord de Seine, an exhibit in the Tuileries Tunnel. Closed to traffic since 2016, the 800m long tunnel is now used by cyclists and pedestrians. Last July, ten European street artists were invited to decorate the tunnel, with each having a space up to 40 meters in length for their work. Walking through the tunnel was mesmerizing, a visual onslaught. For what seemed like long stretches of time, I was alone in a semi-darkened tube flanked by arrays color and form. Suddenly, the stillness would be breached by the roar of a fat-tire eBike or lights from approaching cyclist. I walked the length in both directions, trying to both absorb everything and to capture a sampling – both the original art and the non-commissioned additions. Below I share just a smattering.

I particularly liked the Pigecam creations by the artist Djalouz – art that "promotes a free world without surveillance or censorship"

The bike is real and not part of the mural - but it seemed a nice juxtaposition

I ran into more "street art" as I neared Pont Neuf on the way to Notre Dame. In striking contrast to the art in the Tuileries Tunnel, this work was a celebration of Paris Fashion Week and the recent partnership between Louis Vuitton and the contemporary Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama. The installation at the Paris Head Office on Rue Pont Neuf is one of three installations in Paris, with the others located at the LV stores on the Champs-Elysées and on Place Vendôme.

I eventually made my way to Notre-Dame, noting that while much of the restoration is covered in scaffolding, more of the external barriers had come down. Although it was hoped that the restoration would be complete in time for the 2024 Paris Olympics next summer, the current pace of work has pushed the likely date of opening to December 8, 2024 the Feast of the Immaculate Conception.

Keeping with tradition, I ended my stroll with a double scoop of ice cream, enjoyed along the bank of Île Saint-Louis.

Yayoi Kusama paints her colored dots on the Louis Vuitton Paris Head Office on Rue du Pont Neuf

Restoration in progress at Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Paris

The flying buttresses at the rear, east end of the Cathedral

Coconut and pistachio to cap off another splendid day in Paris

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Steve Miller/GrampiesA nice Paris review.

How much for the deux boules en cornet? This treat seems much rarer to us in France, vs Germany and Austria. Some vendors in Mexico sold coconut flavour only. Yummy!
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1 year ago

Susan CarpenterTo Steve Miller/Grampies€7.5, but it was Berthillon purchase at a tourist spot on Île Saint Louis. It was very good - one of the best scoops of coconut I’ve had
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1 year ago