July 18, 2006
Day 20: Vallabregues - St-Gilles: Bull fights and boule
The character of the land has changed - the towns have arenas for bull fights, boule is played under the shade of plane trees, cypress and olive trees tell us we're in southern France. We feel like we have traveled very far, we are in another world. Last year when we rode our bikes to Den Haag in The Netherlands, it was further measured in kilometers, but we didn't feel we had gone so far.
In the cool early morning we ride the 6 km to Tarascon for breakfast. Tuesday is market day in Tarascon. All traffic to the center is barred and stalls fill the streets. Even pushing a bicycle, it's difficult to make your way through. A weekly market is a colorful, lively event, but it makes it difficult to get a look at the town.
We make our way to a post office and send a small package home, things we are sure we won't be needing any more on this trip, thus making room for our new tent, sleeping bags and mats. Amazing how expensive it is to send a little package from France to Germany.
On small roads with no traffic we reach Arles. We look around but it's the same story, it's too hot to do much sightseeing. Either you want to sit in the shade or ride and get a breeze.
Now it's flat to the horizon, the smell of brine is in the air and we see some of the famous white horses - we are in the Camargue.
There's no shade. We don't even want to stop to take pictures any more.
A half a day on the road is enough. We find a campground in St. Gilles, in the middle of town, with lots of shade and a little swimming pool.
I have added one article to our camping equipment. In Arles I bought a tablecloth with the typical provencal olive twig pattern, made of polyester, not expensive and very sturdy. It makes a very classy tarp.
Even if you don't intend to camp here, it's worth while coming to St. Gilles for the wonderful sculptured facade of the Romanesque church.
Today's ride: 45 km (28 miles)
Total: 1,156 km (718 miles)
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