They did not offer me a free ice cream bar, but I stayed in the office reception area. I didn't go into the lounge area.

Buddy, I bought quite a few ACA maps in years past. I used the maps for planning routes, but my tours seldom stayed on the ACA routes very long, so I never got in the habit of using the maps much during tours. For example my San Diego to Corpus Christi tour was only 20% on the Southern Tier route.
I submitted an update about a 5-site hiker/biker camp at Diamond Lake that ACA didn't know about, but never cared much about map updates after I got a smart phone. I quite carrying paper maps about 10 years ago.

Did they still give free ice cream bars? I can imagine that's a significant expense.

Holy moly!

They're still going to have a public presence in Missoula, just a much-reduced space. My only visit there was 2 years after yours in 2015. I'm debating whether I should purchase the remainder of the paper maps that I may use in the future now - I'm concerned they won't keep printing and updating them.

The latest communication with members suggests that ACA is struggling mightily to adapt to the Internet era which makes route information widely available for free. They said participation in their tours is also declining.

Every road between Hood River and US 97 was closed on the Oregon side, and the bridges to Washington were gridlocked.
I tried driving south from Hood River to US 26 to get to US 97, and that road was also gridlocked just south of Hood River.

My art professor Rudio Autio made this sculpture. A lovely human being and great teacher.

Adventure Cycling's board is considering selling this building which would be damn shame. So much history here.

Bruce and I met in Missoula, in 1979. We were friends for 23 years before we ended up together as a couple. Missoula is where my mother was born, in Jeannette Rankin's log cabin up on the Grant Creek Ranch. My grandparents had a small farm out on South Avenue across from Fort Missoula, one of my Dutch uncles owned property in the north Rattlesnake which was acquired by the Nature Conservancy. This bridge was crossed many times during college on our way to breakfast at some cowboy watering hole.

I guess the alternative, if you had known that 84 was closed of course, would have been to hop on over to 97 and go north from there. That's a significant detour you had to make. It really was a terrible fire, and so early in the season too.

Very impressive document, Wayne. I'm eager to read about this year's route, it includes some of my college days stomping grounds.

Just reading the first few pages brings back memories of our wander last fall in the PNW. Those pictures of Missoula are still fresh in our minds. Good to see those “new” panniers are getting a good workout as well. Cheers from Alaska!

I pedaled Chief Joseph Pass going towards Wisdom in 2011. Don't remember gravel on the shoulder, but it probably varies from year to year depending on the snow and material added for traction. For a high speed descent I usually take the lane because the pavement is smoother, wider, and cleaner. As you said, that highway has very little traffic.
I suppose you are referring to the sad history of the Nez Perce tribe being attacked by US Cavalry at Big Hole battlefield. I plan to stop there to read the exhibits and ponder the history. On previous tours I have passed a few other places that were on the Nez Perce trail of tears.

Looks like another very interesting Wayne Estes tour. I look forward to your journal!
I remember my ride from Jackson to Chief Joseph Pass in 2023. The descent going north was pretty gnarly with rocks and sand on the shoulder. Hope the southward descent is better. (Not much traffic though.) I also enjoyed the town of Wisdom but there’s some sad history in those parts.