Like a bizarre dream - Falling Through Spain - CycleBlaze

October 26, 2023

Like a bizarre dream

I’m awakened when Rachael quietly slips back into bed after a trip to the bathroom.  I reach for the iPad to check the time, hoping that it might be as late as five and almost late enough to get up and head over to the nearest coffee shop, a new place just around the corner that opens at six.  I’m very groggy of course, but coffee will help with that.  Hopes are dashed though as I see that it’s only 1:15, and it’s only been just over an hour since I the last time woke up around midnight.

I try getting back to sleep, but it doesn’t come.  What comes instead are snippets from the past 34 hours, the time between this ridiculous hour and when we woke up at 2:35 back in Valencia and rushed ourselves to make it down to the street by 3 where our taxi was waiting.  So many odd, disjointed little memories surface and I try to place them correctly, not remembering where all of them occurred.  It’s rather like waking from a complex, surreal dream and trying to pull together enough threads into a narrative before they all vaporize and disappear.  Finally I decide I might as well get up and go to the bathroom myself and try writing them down, hoping that will put me back to sleep.

Was it in Frankfurt that I was startled to realize I was hearing the voice of Stacey Kent singing that wonderful bittersweet romance written for her by Kazou Ishiguro, I Wish I Could Go Traveling Again?  So appropriate.  We’re both ready to travel again actually, and would probably rather have been back in Spain than in the horrible Seattle airport, disgusted to be paying six dollars for a plain croissant at a Caribou Coffee(!) stand so I’d have some food to push my meds down with when we get to our apartment.

And Rocky’s ready for it, if we were going back to Spain now.  Primed by our three months in Italy this spring she spent most of the fall automatically saying Grazie to servers and attendants.  She’s made the transition now though, and I think it was when deplaning in Seattle that she said Gracias to the customs agent that checked our passports when we arrived - or maybe it was to our German-speaking Lufthansa flight attendants when we stepped off the plane.

And where was it that I heard that exotic and mysterious piano background music that I at first thought must be a work I didn’t recognize by Erik Satie, but then gradually decided it must be one by Alan Hohvaness, the American-born composer whose many works often reflected his Armenian heritage.  I haven’t thought of or heard a work by Hohvaness for a long time, but he was one of my favorites - Carol Jo and I picked our son’s middle name Alan after him.  No, that’s not right - we named him after our best friend Alan, who introduced us to Hovhaness - I think he took a class from him at the University of Washington?  I can’t remember now.

In any case, I can’t place where that tune came in last night but I think it was while we were still sitting on the plane waiting to deboard in Seattle.  Maybe someone in the Lufthansa organization is a Hohvaness fan too and knows that he lived his final years in Seattle.

I should find some of Hovaness music and share it with Rachael.  It might work well as the video sound track for a moody day, if we ever get to go traveling again.

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So coffee definitely helps, as well as a few more hours of sleep.  Some heat would help too though!   I’m testing out a new to me coffee shop and so far it gets a lukewarm review.  It scores high for opening at six and the blueberry peach scone is excellent, but it’s cold!  I’ll either need to dress for winter the next time I show up or look elsewhere.  It’s a pretty rude adjustment after sunny Spain.

Looks like a Christmas card.
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With that in mind, plus the fact that I’ve got a laundry list of chores to start in on, I’d better wrap this up before my hands start shaking too much from the cold.  Just the essentials, with minimal embellishment.

Our taxi driver to the Valencia airport was outstanding.  Alert, helpful, prompt, funny, and even offered us brownies when he dropped us off.  Rachael tried one, but in principal I don’t accept brownies from strangers - even good humor men like this guy.

Our hotel in Valencia gets pretty low marks for domain knowledge.  On their recommendation we booked a taxi to pick us up at 3 and then arrived at the airport at 3:20.  The airport was open at that hour, but lifeless.  No one showed up at the check-in counter until 3:45, and almost no other travelers arrived until 4.  I think we could have made better use of that wasted half hour somehow.

The Valencia airport on the other hand gets a rave review from us.  The agent who checked us in was fast, courteous, fluent in our language, and most amazingly of all didn’t charge us an excess baggage fee for our third piece of checked luggage.  They turned on the lights at 3:45, we were checked in not much than five minutes later, and promptly at 4 the first coffee shop opened up.  And they had heat, unlike this silly place.

Oh, and the security screening was efficient and painless (I’m sure it helped being early in the day though), which we’ll think back on later when we arrive in Portland.

Our flight to Frankfurt was uneventful and on time, which is just how we like them.  We had almost a five hour layover there before our flight to Seattle, which we filled once we made the long trek to our departure wing by having a pretty unappealing but expensive lunch at one of the few dining choices available and then finding comfortable chairs with outlets we could recharge our devices from.  All in all, we give Frankfurt a so-so rating.  We wouldn’t seek it out specifically, but we wouldn’t avoid it if the price was right.

Condor Airlines are a different story though.  Them, I really would avoid unless the price is really right.  As it often is unfortunately; that’s the whole point.  I hate Condor.    Ten hours is a pretty long time to be cooped up like that, but to be fair really it only felt like about twenty.

Rachael watched four films, while I went through all the photos from the tour, separating them into folders for backup and tossing out ones not worth keeping.  It’s a satisfying and even shocking exercise going through the whole tour this way.  There is so much I’d forgotten about already.

Back on the subject of things to avoid, add the Seattle airport to the list.  My god, what a horrible experience.  Their security screening for transferring customers is a nightmare, the worst either of us has seen anywhere.  It’s hard to imagine anyone designed the mindlessly inefficient system they’re running there.  Fortunately we arrive on time and had an almost three hour layover, and even with that we arrived at our next departure gate only fifteen minutes before boarding started.  Unreal.

Rachael slept for the 45 minute flight down to Portland, but I stayed awake and took advantage of my window seat on the right (meaning, the left) side of the plane to take a zillion photos.  Full moon!  It’s too bad the flight didn’t leave fifteen or twenty minutes earlier when the light would have been better, but it was still pretty great.

We flew home on a Hunter’s Moon.
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The light is getting poor, but it’s a good angle on West Seattle, downtown, Lake Washington and Mercer Island. And it’s nice to get the light of sunset illuminating the wing of the plane. Pretty good seat for enjoying the show.
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Rainier and the moon. Too bad the windows weren’t just a bit cleaner too, as long as I’m quibbling.
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The plane, Saint Helens, Adams, and the Moon in that order.
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We’re staying in a condo in the Pearl District, just a few blocks from Elizabeth’s place.  We’ll be here for a month so we’ll say more about it later, so for now we’ll limit ourselves to remembering the Type 2 fun we enjoyed getting here.  Through a mixup, our cab dropped us off at the wrong spot, a block from the entrance to our condo; so we lugged our two bike suitcases, our huge duffel bag, Rachael’s two panniers and two rucksacks down the street for a block.  Fortunately it was dry, not cold, and not impeded by homeless loiterers lining our paths.

Once we got to the right door, it took us another interminable amount of time to figure out all the access instructions and squeeze ourselves and all our junk though the door.  Sounds pretty straight forward, right?  Suffice it to say that almost anything at all complicated is hard if you’re exhausted and jet lagged enough.  It wasn’t Team Anderson’s finest hour.  We looked like clowns.  It would have made a fine comedy sketch.

No matter.  We’ve arrived!

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Comment on this entry Comment 27
Rich FrasierWow - that was a mission. Good that you made it back, though. Your trip was great and really popped up some new places in Spain that weren't on my radar. Thanks for your adventurous spirits and congratulations on another successful voyage. Looking forward to the next one!
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6 months ago
Bill ShaneyfeltI think Teddy Roosevelt said something like- Nothing worthwhile is ever easy-

Good trip!
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6 months ago
Steve Miller/GrampiesCondors is on our no fly ever again unless it can't possibly be avoided list. Sounds like your journey home was eventful and none too pleasant, but at least you are there, relatively intact, and after some rest you will hopefully regain your usual sangfroid.
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6 months ago
Jacquie GaudetAnd all your luggage arrived with you! That's a win in my books.
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6 months ago
Kathleen JonesWelcome home. Sorta home.
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6 months ago
Keith ClassenGlad you made it intact! Did you give your driver a tip? He didn’t deserve it if you did. A good driver would wait until you open the door to your accommodation- especially for old people. Maybe you didn’t look your age.
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6 months ago
Scott AndersonTo Kathleen JonesThanks! See you in early December?
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6 months ago
Scott AndersonTo Keith ClassenYes. We were complicit. It was a joint decision, because the entrance on the side street away from the building address. We picked the wrong cross street.
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6 months ago
Carolyn van HoeveHi Scott & Rachael! Glad you've made it back intact if a somewhat unpleasant experience getting there. Sad not to be reading another entry for Spain. Another wonderful journal, thank you! Your 2 months seemed to fly, so you can imagine our dissatisfaction at a mere month ... a wonderful month though and like you, no need for the waterproof and warm gear. Itching to get back there and Spain definitely on the radar for next year as well as a longer tour. At least summer is on it's way here .. sort of. Sorry you haven't much to look forward to right now, least of all the surgery. Wishing you all the very best for it and please keep your fan base posted with updates. Once you're through that, and I'm sure successfully, you'll have the next tour to really look forward to!
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6 months ago
Scott AndersonTo Carolyn van HoeveThanks, Carolyn. It wasn’t really as bad as all that getting home - I just whine a lot. And we’ve got plenty to look forward to this winter - we’ll be heading down to California and Tucson next month after we’re done here, which we always look forward to; and assuming everything goes well we’ll be heading back over to Europe for another nine month odyssey in early spring.

Glad you made it back OK. Enjoy your summer!
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6 months ago
Kelly IniguezWelcome back!
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6 months ago
Kathleen JonesTo Scott AndersonThat would be nice.
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6 months ago
Ben ParkeWelcome home. I can confirm that your experience with Condor was not an enigma. Every time I’ve flown with them I’ve sworn would be the last. I only flew with them this summer because allegedly they will fly a velomobile as checked luggage. I’ve already told that story in my blog, so I’ll spare the details, but they managed to not put my velomobile on the connecting flight in Frankfurt and it sat there for a couple days before anyone located it and put it on a flight. That’s the second time they’ve failed to put a bike of mine on a flight. The first time it was unfortunately the flight TO Europe meaning I spent the first couple days of my one week cycling vacation without a bicycle. They may be cheap, but they suck. I’m glad all your luggage made it back in one piece with you. I wish you a speedy adjustment from jet lag.
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6 months ago
Suzanne GibsonGreat journal, and inspiring, as always! Thanks especially for the great photos and videos. I'm pretty sure we are going to be able to coordinate something with you in Spain in 2024.
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6 months ago
marilyn swettCongrats on another great tour and arriving home safely! I would add the Los Angeles airport to your list of how they handle those that are transferring planes. We've just returned for a 2 week Mediterranean cruise and flew from Madrid to LA then on to Phoenix. What a nightmare! Super long flight - on Iberia - the food was horrid. Once in LA we had to deplane, go through customs which had a long long line, then pick up our checked bag. Then we had to drop off that bag in another location where it disappeared into the bowels of the airport (we hoped we would see it again), exit the airport, walk outside to get to our next terminal, go back through TSA - another line and checks, then find our next flight's gate which was a long walk to the other end of the airport. We barely made that flight even though we had a 2 hour layover. Sheesh! I sure don't ever want to do that again!
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6 months ago
Scott AndersonTo marilyn swettThanks for the tip, Marilyn. Funny timing. I was looking at flights to Barcelona this morning, where we hope to start spring’s tour from. The most attractive option goes through LA and flies Iberian, and I wondered what that would be like.
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6 months ago
Scott AndersonTo Suzanne GibsonWe could be meeting in Spain? I’d better send you our draft itinerary. We’ll be looking for a flight as soon as my cardio guy gives me even. Partial thumb up.
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6 months ago
David MathersAnother great journal Scott with some absolutely amazing photography. All the best with your upcoming procedures. Take care.
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6 months ago
Bob KoreisHmmm, guess I'm the outlier here who has had good experiences with Condor, but I have not flown them since before Covid.

Enjoyed following along when I had the time to read journals. You've provided plenty more "must see" locations for bicycle travel.
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6 months ago
Patrick O'HaraWelcome back. Great journal and photos as usual. I'm sure you're not used to the nip in the air today. Sorry to hear about the less than smooth travel day. All the best on November 1st! Hope you get a big thumbs up from your cardiologist.
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6 months ago
Scott AndersonTo Patrick O'HaraThanks, Patrick. The flight wasn’t that bad relly - I was just due to whine about something. The cold though! That is worth whining about.
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6 months ago
Jen RahnWelcome back, you two!

Only 11 (right?) more days until we see you. 🙂
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6 months ago
Scott AndersonTo Jen RahnUgh, higher math - double digits! Good thing I’m wearing my sandals this morning and can see my toes. Yup!
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6 months ago
Scott AndersonTo Kelly IniguezThanks! Have the raptors returned to Tucson yet? Can’t wait to go down again.
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6 months ago
Rachel and Patrick HugensNot waiting for 6 years this time...welcome home! Totally agree about coming back internationally through Seattle and immigration process!!
Racpat
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6 months ago
Scott AndersonTo Rachel and Patrick HugensAbout time. We’ve been home four days already.
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6 months ago
Rachael AndersonTo Jen RahnI can’t wait to see both of you!
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6 months ago