March 28, 2024
To Moura
The day started with a pleasant breakfast in the company of two pairs of Scottish cyclists who were each headed for Mertola, though they had never met. I’d briefly encountered Naomi and Vint yesterday when I arrived at the Beatriz, they were on their way out to explore the town before the rains came. Over our shared breakfast, we got to know a little more about each other – they’re from Inverness and are out on short loop through the Alentejo beginning and ending in Evora. They haven’t done extended tours, and were interested in Cycle Blaze as a resource for possible future trips. Ronnie and Julie were quite experienced cyclists, and Ronnie had all sorts of route suggestions in Spain and Portugal, though I admit it was hard to understand him with his thick Scottish brogue and the fact that he was often talking while eating!
It was a short ride today to Moura, just over 20 miles with what promised to be a mostly brisk tailwind. Though still quite gusty, the winds were predicted to gradually lessen over the next few days, though the rains were persisting through the end of the week. It seemed though, that I would be able to get to Moura without getting a good sopping. After thanking the very kind staff at the Beatriz, I made my way through the streets of Serpa, heading towards Brinches under grey skies.
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The N265 road to Brinches was a little more trafficked than I anticipated, one favored by farm trucks. However, just south of Brinches I veered off onto N386, a smaller road with virtually no traffic that took me all the way to the outskirts of Moura. Agriculture dominated the landscape, from the small shanties of farm workers to the rows upon rows upon rows of olive trees. Blue sky and sun made their appearance, and it sometimes seemed as if I travelling in a narrow strip between storm fronts. As it so often does, the sun was energizing, and I rolled along to Moura with nary a care in the world.
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It was too early for check-in when I arrived in Moura, so I stowed Vivien George and set off for lunch. Though I was headed for a different restaurant, I happened on Retiro Ernesto, where the owner Rui kindly offered me a seat at one of their four tables. The restaurant is a small family affair, run by Rui and his wife Maria The take great pride in their offerings and I took immense pleasure in the conversation and food: starter of melted goat cheese with mango chutney, nuts and oregano and a main of pork and chickpea stew. Rui talked me into desert, a regional specialty, some type of almond flavored flan dish. It was such a lovely and relaxing meal that I forgot all about the weather, and was surprised when I walked out of the restaurant into a steady rain.
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Your bad weather attitude is admirable. I think I'd be whiny by now!
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By late afternoon, the off-again, on-again rains had stopped so I ventured out to see the Castillo de Moura, which “was for centuries the civic, political, religious, and military center of the city.” Though it had grown quite blustery, I decided to climb up on the walls for a panoramic view over the city and surrounding country side. As I made my way down and exited the castle walls, the rain began in earnest. I quickly donned my raincoat, but was cold and damp by the time I made it back to the hotel. I spent the rest of the evening under the covers, fighting off a cough, and wishing for the warm Iberian sunshine that I so enjoyed last spring.
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Today's ride: 21 miles (34 km)
Total: 202 miles (325 km)
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