April 4, 2024
To Castelo de Vide
My day got off to a spectacular start, then experienced some minor hiccups, and ended in a bit of confused chaos and a fabulous dinner. As is my routine most mornings, I started the day with a couple of puzzles from the NY Times. I’ve pared my puzzle routine to two while on the road – Connections and Wordle. My approach to Wordle is to pick a different word each day, usually one I find relevant for the day, or which strikes my fancy. Today it was the former, and as Scott Anderson pointed out, I must have been thinking of today’s ride to Castelo de Vido. Yes indeed! I got the correct word on the first try - climb!
After that great start, the team briefly stalled out in Alter do Chão due to indecision/miscommunication about going up into town for a look-see, photos, drone flying. I take responsibility for stalling the team, realizing too late that I did not want to climb into town on the cobbles. We all were stopped in the middle of one hilly intersection when Suzanne was approached by a friendly local woman who engrossed her in a five minute conversation in Portuguese. The woman was very excited, with arms waving about as she gave Suzanne what appeared to be very detailed directions. Suzanne, as already noted, has some understanding of Portuguese and later explained the woman was directing us to the stables of the famed horses of Alter do Chão. Suzanne graciously thanked the woman as we headed down the hill, turned back toward our route, and left the horses for another visit.
| Heart | 5 | Comment | 0 | Link |
The ride began with a glorious ten mile stretch into Crato - a small, virtually car-free road that undulated up, down and around a lush and open countryside. The town of Crato appeared to have once been a fairly thriving industrial town. We passed an old train station and an abandoned factory, which seemed to have been repurposed as a stork condo. The storks were everywhere, flying about, nesting atop peaks, perching atop smokestacks. I can’t recall another tour where I’ve seen so many storks. I’ve come to consider them my protectors, encouraging me along as I’ve faced some of the weather challenges of this trip.
| Heart | 8 | Comment | 2 | Link |
1 month ago
The sun was out and temperatures were warming – I was thinking this might be the first day without layers over my cycle jersey. The occasion required a quick trip into town for some provisions – sunscreen, bananas and pasteis de nata – which we enjoyed during a nice break in the town square.
From Crato, it was almost a straight line north to Alpalhão along N245, a two-lane shoulder-less road favored by large trucks. It was not only the road that had changed, the landscape had generally become less open and rockier. The tall trees and rock walls that flanked the road contributed to a feeling of being on a narrow highway, one which discouraged frequent stops for roadside pictures.
I was growing worried about the climb to Castelo de Vide, hoping we were not in for a steep snaky ascent on a narrow road with a line of trucks panting to pass. But my fears were for naught. After Alpalhão, the road widened with a nice shoulder and the 3.5 mile climb was a steady 4% . Suzanne and Janos were waiting as I arrived at the base of the town, prepared to follow me up the cobbles to our lodging for the next two days. And then the chaos began.
| Heart | 3 | Comment | 0 | Link |
We had arrived in Castelo de Vide too early for the 4 pm check in, and there was a brief discussion as to whether to find a resting spot or to go directly to our lodging. Choosing the latter, I was confidently leading the team up the hill when my track directed me to a staircase. Progress stopped as we all peered at our devices and tried to figure out an alternate route to our destination. What we didn’t realize was that we each had a different destination. Adding to the confusion was the maze of narrow cobbled streets that wove steeply up, down and across this hillside town. After a few starts and stops, we all proceeded in different directions - but all finally arrived at Casa Maria, the lodging I had reserved on booking.com. Exhausted and frustrated, we pushed up to the end of the street where we found a spot at the base of the castle to rest and regroup.
After some effort, I was able to contact the hostess and get the code to my downstairs unit - but Suzanne was having no such luck in getting the code for their upstairs unit. I texted the hostess asking for their code, while Suzanne and Janos, realizing they had an upstairs apartment, decided to chain their bikes to the iron railing outside my window. Eventually, I was able speak to the hostess by phone and after several minutes of confusion everyone realized that Suzanne and Janos were not booked into the upstairs apartment at Casa Maria, but rather into different apartment altogether. Fortunately, their apartment was just around the corner. After more hauling of panniers and pushing of bikes, everyone had finally found their home in Castelo de Vide. A bit chaotic, but no harm done and we all ended the day with a great meal and in fine spirits.
| Heart | 5 | Comment | 0 | Link |
| Heart | 6 | Comment | 0 | Link |
Today's ride: 30 miles (48 km)
Total: 375 miles (604 km)
| Rate this entry's writing | Heart | 15 |
| Comment on this entry | Comment | 5 |
1 month ago
Wordle 1,020 4/6*
⬜🟨⬜⬜⬜
🟨🟨⬜⬜🟨
🟨⬜🟩🟨⬜
🟩🟩🟩🟩🟩
And glad to hear you all got situated okay.
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