After eleven straight days on the bikes and exactly 2 weeks on the road, we took a day off them to explore the great city of Pamplona. We were not up early but we were out before many who likely stayed up partying late into the night. The streets had been freshly washed and the sun was just starting to take the fresh chill out of the air as we left the hotel. We have heard many times that Pamplona is a rainy city but it is certainly not that way today! They are experiencing uncharacteristically beautiful weather this October.
The historic area of Pamplona is a nice, approachable size and can be explored in a day. We set off fairly aimlessly, which is our way, and a bit lame for a couple who plan their daily rides by the kilometre! We first stopped at a small restaurant that had morning sun on their patio and enjoyed coffees and a small snack. Our great plan for today was to go to the tourist office and get a map of the city. We discovered that we had circled the office a few times before finding that we were having breakfast almost right beside it. Without the Garmin Operator we are completely lost. lol The office was quiet and we were immediately helped by the waiting staff. With a map in hand which outlined four walking tours, we had our day planned.
We started out on Calle Estafeta, with the the street glistening from the early morning cleaning that washed away the party that was going last night. Calle Estafeta is not only the big party street in Pamplona, it is also where the bulls are run during San Fermín Festival. We can only imagine the mayhem as they charge up the slightly sloped street and into the stadium beyond.
From a 2022 New York Times article, ¨In 2019, the last time the races were run, eight people were gored during bull runs and 35 others were treated for other injuries, city officials said. Sixteen people have been killed in bull runs in Pamplona since 1910. ¨ Further, ¨Each morning, six bulls charge toward thousands of brave runners along a half-mile stretch of street to the city’s bullring... and the average duration of each race is less than four minutes.¨ Play stupid games win stupid prizes comes to mind.
We walked the route and four minutes would be a blink of an eye. My words cannot come close to describing what it would be like to see this live or even more - from street level! The best we could do, given that this is October and not July, is for a small fee to have an audio guided tour of the Pamplona bullring. It was really interesting. As a bonus on this Sunday morning, few others were there.
A couple of thoughts about this freshly washed street. Calle de la Estafeta was wall to wall people last night when we were here. It was a party! And now it is almost empty. As well, during the ¨running of the bulls¨ the bulls run up this street and I can see no place to hide. If there are any, I am sure that they would be taken.
Entering the bull ring exhibit, they close the doors behind you and it was just the two of us when the video of the running of the bulls was presented. It was not quite like the opening of the movie ¨Saving Private Ryan¨ but you get the idea.
Steve Miller/GrampiesAnyone notice that the participants seem to be all males? Dodie did, and unkindly pointed out that probably the women have more good sense. Reply to this comment 7 months ago
Not a bull! Our bull ring tour was almost over and there were a couple of doors in an area where the matadors go just before entering the ring. Not sure why the dog is there but he is cute!
Leaving the stadium, we began to walk the fortified walls of the city. Pamplona is full of parks, public spaces, spectacular buildings and grand architectural styles. We hoped that we were able to see all the best parts. It was a real treat to be here and we loved it.
A day and a half is a quick trip to Pamplona but enough to get a feel for this wonderful city. It is a great place to visit and we hope to come back again one day. As the weather forecast is still looking good for the next few days, it would be best to keep moving along. Tomorrow we will be on our way to Estrella.
