January 8, 2023
Colliers to Wellsburg, Wheeling, and (eventually to) Bridgport, Ohio
Avoiding Danger but Taking on Some Hills
"One little town I'll never forget, Is Lourdes, the village of Saint Bernadette." Eula Parker, Andy Williams.
January 8, 2023 - 30 Miles
The quality of any ride depends greatly upon the route chosen. Since the Panhandle Trail comes to an end, at Harmon Creek, and roads are only way to reach the trails that begin in Wellsburg, the route taken is very important. More than 10 years ago, I took a road ride to Wellsburg. To the South of Follansbee, Route 2 became very narrow and shoulder-less. It had poor sight lines, steady traffic, and the speed limit was posted at 55 miles per hour. Of course, that usually means that motorists are going significantly faster. That ride is memorable for me because it was very stressful. At one point, the grade rose to a blind curve with no shoulder and traffic buzzing by me from both directions. To describe that situation as having been unpleasant is an understatement.
Whether or not any of that has changed in the last several years, is unknown to me. I would guess not because, in that narrow space between the cliffs and the river are an active railroad, heavy industrial properties, and no room to widen the road or add a bike trail.
With all of that in mind, I decided to go to Wellsburg the long way. It involved going over hill and dale rather than cruising on the flatter state highway running alongside the Ohio River. It also relegated the ride to Follansbee, described in Stage 3, to side trip status.
My fondness for this portion of Ohio Valley goes back a long time to when a good friend and I rode across the country. While passing through this area near the end of our long journey (in August 1981), I was provided with a new perspective on a place I had taken for granted. The Ohio River and all of the industry along it had been the backbone of the nation. It was beautiful and powerful all at the same time. We spent the night camped along the riverfront, near Wellsburg, before heading to Pittsburgh the next morning.
In 1983, a solo trip along the Ohio, to Cincinnati, brought me through the valley again. The faded photo above is from that ride. Fast forward 40 years and this stage of the tour of West Virginia begins in a small and unincorporated community near the Pennsylvania State Line called Colliers. Like a lot of communities in the area, it looks like it has seen better days. Back in the early 1980s, when I passed through, the Steel Industry was collapsing and pulling most of the rest of the local economies beyond the event horizon, along with itself. Some of these places are shadows of their old selves, never having fully recovered to this very day. Although decimated, a few people still call Colliers home. I would ascribe some truth to their sign that says they haven't a child to spare. They don't have too many folks to spare, period.
On this cold Sunday morning, a Methodist Church was "gracing" the whole town by piping music through its outside speakers. Although a little off key, at times, it was nice to hear the pleasant melody rather than the intrusive engine, sirens and mechanized humming noises that go on in many river towns these days. This was a nice way to start off my ride.
My route out of town required a climb of Mechling Hill Road (MHR) to reach State Alternate Route 27 (Alt-27). MHR is a more gradual climb but is longer than Boyd Road that I used to get to Follansbee. There were a few cars winding their way up and down the hill as I labored along before finally reaching Alt-27.
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There, the climbing continued before dropping a bit on the way to my next turn, St. John's Road (SJR). The Olde St. John's Episcopal Church building and grounds lie on the righthand side as the left is made onto SJR. The church cemetery is on the right after making the turn. Then, SJR meanders along past widely spaced residences and a few spots with views of the surrounding hills. The road then makes a big drop down to the Cross Creek valley and an intersection where a turn to the right is needed to stay on course.
After taking a short video of Cross Creek, as it flowed along toward the Ohio River, I became unsure of which way I needed to go. While checking the map on my phone, a well-attired woman stopped her car and asked if I was alright. She told me I needed to turn right in order to get to Wellsburg. I thanked her and continued on Bruin Road, named for the mascot of Brooke (County) High School located a mile or so further down the road. I would bet there are a few bear living in this heavily wooded valley.
Bruin Road wound pleasantly alongside Cross Creek for a mile and a half. Then, shortly before reaching the school complex, I made a left turn onto Sanders Hill Road (SHR) and confronted the next big hill. At a wide spot near the intersection, the daunting climb appeared before me. I stopped for a quick drink and a photo before taking on a grade that rivaled any tough climb in this region.
SHR went up for over a mile before reaching Rabbit Hill Road (RHR). Along the way were some good views of the Cross Creek Valley, the Brooke County School complex and later on, the Ohio River Valley.
Once having turned onto RHR, the grade began to drop toward the Ohio River. A sign advised the road was not suitable for large trucks. I later found out it is because the road makes a vey tight turn on its descent. A large tractor trailer would not be able to successfully negotiate it.
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The ride down was fast at times. Care is needed, especially at the aforementioned hairpin turn where motor vehicles are directed to reduce speed to 10 miles per hour. I didn't stop for any photos there because there were a few vehicles behind me and the road was quite narrow.
At the bottom, State Highway 2 is crossed and the town proper of Wellsburg is entered. After passing the Kroger parking lot, the Yankee Trail is on the right.
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From Wellsburg, a series of trails runs along the Ohio River all the way to Wheeling. The initial trail is called the Yankee. It makes a short jaunt Northward that is referred to as the 29th Street Loop. It is worth doing because the path takes a rider right up close to the Ohio River (see link to video clip, below). Besides seeing the peaceful but mighty river up close, there is a view of Mingo Junction, Ohio on the other side. In the Summer, there are often a few houseboats taking up residence on the shore. This is a beautiful spot, even in Winter.
Once around the bend at 29th Street, the road begins and is called Charles Street. It is followed to a left onto 22nd Street and then a right onto Yankee Street, which doubles as the trail for a while in town. Some short detours can be taken on intersecting streets to see sights in town or to reach restaurants, stores, and places of business. I opted to see Town Square, lying along side the river. The courthouse and some local government offices are there, as well. It is a nice spot that would have been even nicer on a mild Summer day. Town Square lies on 7th Street, between Charles and Main.
Approaching 3rd Street, there is a park on the right and the trail turns right and then left onto Charles Street. At 2nd Street, we're leaving town and the Yankee Trail becomes the Brooke Pioneer Trail (BPT). It crosses Buffalo Creek, where it flows into the Ohio River. There is a big, open at the top, water treatment tank right on the river. The trail curves around a bend and goes up a grade which is part of the river bank.
The trail runs along the river to the right (if heading South) and Highway 2 is to the left. Normally, the BPT can be used to get to the Wheeling Heritage Trail that begins near Short Creek. However, on this day I was detoured back to Highway 2 because of a construction project. It seems that a new bridge across the Ohio is being built. It looks to be largely finished and will connect Wellsburg, WV to Brilliant, Ohio. Trail traffic has been interrupted due to danger from the construction above. Hopefully, the BPT will reopen soon.
Highway 2 has some fast moving traffic but has shoulders in this area. Due to the construction, I was able to stay on the other side of the orange barriers for most of the ride. Rejoining the BPT is not possible until Viderman Drive, near Beech Bottom. This is because much of it lies 20-50 feet below the highway in this area and there is no access to it. You can see it but cannot reach it. Once back on the trail, it passes through a wooded area and then things open up while it follows the river. On this cold but clear morning, the river views were wonderful.
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At Short Creek, the BPT is nearly finished. I stopped and took in some of the quiet (see the brief video clip below). A sign on Highway 2 lets you know you're now in Ohio County. Here, the Wheeling Heritage Trail (WHT) begins. The WHT lies in more open surroundings for most of the way from here to the city. The exception is when it passes through Warwood, where there are some houses on one side and trees that obscure the river on the other.
Along the WHT, a highlight is seeing the Pike Island Locks and Dam. With good timing, it is possible to see a boat coming through the locks, as I did on this morning (see below). There is significant river commerce still going on. The locks and dam create deeper pools of water that allow larger vessels to pass while also containing the river to prevent most flooding. However, when situated along any large river, flooding can occur in spite of many efforts and technological advances undertaken to prevent it.
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For the last part of this ride, I wanted to get over to Wheeling Island. To do so, I shouldered the bike and went up a steep set of steps at 8th Street and then rode further uphill to Main Street. A right turn and a couple of blocks later found the entrance to the historic 10th Street suspension bridge. It was under extensive construction when I arrived but the sidewalks were still open to allow residents to cross. I walked the bike over while taking in the views of the river, the I-70 bridge, and the old suspension bridge itself. A few other folks encountered while walking across were friendly and we exchanged pleasantries on this fine morning.
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Since my schedule for meeting my wife in Bridgeport, Ohio, got a little tight, I didn't have much time to look around on Wheeling Island. I was able to take a look at a monument that marked the high water lines of many past floods that affected the island. Despite the fact that there were quite a few flood events, many homes and businesses remained. The island is home to a marina, wildlife refuge, casino, racetrack, and a football stadium. The Fire Department has its training academy there, as well. On the next stage of this tour, I'll have a better look around the place.
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Bridgeport, Ohio was accessed by taking Zane Street and using another bridge to cross the back channel of the Ohio River. I had made an arrangement with a fellow by the name of Zeke to use his facility, called The Real Gym, upon arriving. There were a few such places in Wheeling, none of which were open on a Sunday morning. It worked out well.
For the resumption of the tour, from Wheeling, I'll plan for a day other than a Sunday, to look around a bit when more establishments might be open for business. The WHT continues to the Southern reaches of the city, so it too will be explored. Stay tuned.
Today's ride: 32 miles (51 km)
Total: 152 miles (245 km)
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