We always do best when travelling if we trust our instincts. Shikoku has been at times challenging to find accommodation. This is not because there is a dearth of places, rather it is because many of the places are small privately owned traditional guesthouses…Minshuku or Ryokans. Usually they are not available on booking sites, and they are not advertised. Basically you look for something on google maps or you chance upon it while riding. The signage is of course in Japanese and often nothing on the sign suggests that it is accommodation. as well, some accommodations are called Henro Lodging and we don’t want to take a place needed by a pilgrim.
When we arrived here at Minshuku Fukuya, we had a good feeling just from the photo linked to Google Maps. We were right. The Minshuku was well run by a mother and daughter, immaculate and the food was excellent. This experience gives us more confidence to just try anything you can find. We do camp as well, but we are not always in the right place for that.
Breakfast at the Minshuku…miso soup, small salads, seafood, pickles, rice and raw egg. Mix the raw egg in the hot rice, add soy sauce and enjoy!
Susan JamesSo my Japanese grandfather would crack the egg in the bowl, add soy sauce and stir before adding it to the rice. I still love to eat this, it reminds me of him. Reply to this comment 5 months ago
Last evening we ate dinner with 2 women we have been encountering the past few days. Eden and Sarah, from Seattle and Portland, are doing a section of the pilgrimage together. Previously Eden had done the first 23 of the 88 temples on her own. She has returned to do the next 1/3 with Sarah. They ate breakfast earlier as this is their last day of walking. We hope to see them again on our travels.
Susan JamesI am so impressed you are comfortable with the traditional Japanese dishes. My American father and now my American husband would definitely prefer the eggs and bacon. Reply to this comment 5 months ago
Our tatami mat room at the Minshuku. This room is one of the first that Barry was comfortable sleeping on the floor. Usually we have to blow up our camp pad for the comfort of his back.
Our ride is beginning with a big climb. Earlier in the trip this would have been more of a challenge. We are getting stronger in the verdant hills of Shikoku.
The “Blue Line” around Shikoku is our route these days. It’s funny, but we still get excited when we see it. Depending on the day, we haven’t always followed this route. Roadies (road bike riders) love it.
Back to back tunnels. Note the small blue images of a walker (pilgrim) and a cyclist at the bottom right of the sign. It is a reminder to drivers to give us space and consideration. We are in good company with the Pilgrims.
We are getting close to the top and the view is breathtaking. You can see our route to the left where the guard rail is visible. Shikoku is indeed a special place with so many areas unspoiled by development or industry. The bridge in the distance is the Toll Expressway….not allowed on it and never want to anyway!
And now for something completely different…a Michi-no-Eki. They do pop up just when you need a break…bathrooms, food, local products and crafts. Always interesting.
This Michi did not disappoint. In the courtyard by the restaurant was this group of happy people, a polar bear, bunny, cat etc.
We have reached Iwamotoji Temple and the weather has turned pretty nasty. Whether we stop early, depends on the weather.
Iwamotoji Temple is in Shimanto Town and was founded in 729.. The original Pilgrim, Kobo Daishi visited this temple from 814 to 824. Inside the Hondo(main hall) the ceiling is covered with 575 paintings from all over Japan.
A young artist painted some amazing cat paintings and these are on loan, being featured here.
In 1978 when the hall was under reconstruction, a competition was held all around Japan of amateur and professional artists. The theme is the beauty of nature…flowers, birds, winds and the moon.The result is the 575 board paintings on the ceiling. The photos give you a taste of what we saw.
We were so pleased to see Sara and Eden walk up to the temple, just as we were leaving. This is auspicious for them as they will be staying here tonight and this is the final temple of this trip’s pilgrimage for them. They asked Barry to take their photo…and this large group of Pilgrims arrived. A bit of chaos and much laughing ensued.
Eden and Sarah…it was a pleasure to meet you. We hope you have a wonderful time with your families who have come to meet you.have a great stay at Iwamotoji Temple. We envy you the onsen experience you will enjoy there.
We left this very special temple enthused about carrying on. However, the weather has really turned nasty…heavy rain and wind. There is one guesthouse in this small town and luckily we were able to get a room. Ryokan Mimi will be our home for tonight…and we have an Onsen onsite as well. A wonderful end to a great day, but a short day of riding.
Today's ride: 25 km (16 miles) Total: 846 km (525 miles)
5 months ago