To Carpentras

May 7, 2023

Les Gorges de la Nesque

This tour just keeps getting better - it’s as if every day is my birthday with a new present to unwrap. And the icing on the proverbial birthday cake is the chance to share it all with Suzanne and Janos. Tomorrow we will head in different directions, and our last day cycling together was another one for the books.

After a string of glorious weather, it looked to be an overcast day with the possibility of showers. But our spirits were not dampened for the big event today was a ride through Les Gorges de la Nesque, a deep canyon that cuts through the Plateau du Vaucluse between Monieux and Méthamis. We set out on a gentle four mile drop to Monieux, and then began the climb through the gorge to Castellaras, the highest point on the canyon road that connects Monieux and Villes-sur-Auzon. There was little traffic, and we stopped often for pictures. A large lookout area at Castellaras, Le Belvédère du Castellaras, provided sweeping views down the gorge and across to the large rock face Rocher de Cire, the Wax Rock, so named because of the swarm of bees that once settled there.

"Do you think that anyone will notice us eating the lavender bushes?"

"I don't think they can miss the whole flock of us out here fertilizing the lavender field"

Looking down the gorge from Le Belvédère du Castellaras

Panorama from Le Belvédère du Castellaras

The long ride down was delicious, passing through short tunnels and along a gently curving balcony road that went on for miles and miles. I put away the camera and just relished the ride, thinking back to my aforementioned 2012 self-guided cycle trip to Provence and the Lavender Plateau. We had a rest day in Moustiers-Sainte-Marie with an option to cycle through the Gorges du Verdon, said to be the grand canyon of Europe. I never even considered cycling through the gorge as an option – it was far beyond anything I could imagine doing. However, I did want to see the gorge so my sister and I hired a taxi – and even then I was terrified, clinging to the arm rest and closing my eyes as we dodged cyclists and other cars along a twisting road with only a six-inch stone guardrail. And now here I was – Ventoux yesterday, flying down the Nesque Gorge today. I could only shake my head and smile.

For sale: I wonder if the bike is included

The balcony rode make a discernable cut through the trees

It was a chilly descent, so we stopped at a small café in Villes-sur-Auzon for hot chocolate and coffee. It was then I noticed the sign indicating that it was only 11 km to Bédoin, where Janos had left the battery cover for his eBike (don’t ask how he ended up in Bédoin yesterday, you’ll have to read Suzanne’s account here). I suggested we might detour to Bédoin on our way to Carpentras and pick up the battery cover; however, it was Europe Victory Day and the bike store might not be open. Suzanne got a confusing voice message when she called the store, not a promising sign. But when Janos said the store rented bikes, I reasoned that it was worth it to take the detour on the chance they were open. After all, Bédoin is the major launching point for ascending Mont Ventoux and there would likely be lots of bikers/bike renters out on this long holiday weekend. I also thought that I might find a Ventoux bike jersey in Bédoin, having not found one at either the summit souvenir shop or in Sault.

In Villes-sur-Auzon, with lots of road bikers and their carbon steeds

Soon we all agreed that we were going to Bédoin. New routes were generated and we were off, cycling through vineyards rather than fields of lavender. Janos pushed ahead and when Suzanne and I caught up with him in Bédoin he had a big smile to go along with his battery cover! And I found a Ventoux cycling jersey that I liked! A very successful detour.

The route back to Carpentras was done on the fly, but we finally found some nice quiet roads and made our way through the city to our hotel. We were all pretty beat and settled for pizza/pasta at the nearby Little Italy restaurant. While not exactly a meal to celebrate a week of fantastic cycling and friendship, it was a satisfying conclusion to an eventful day on the road.

Mont Ventoux was still watching over us as we made our way to Carpentras

Vineyards, not lavendar, dominated the landscape on this side of the Plateau du Vaucluse

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Today's ride: 38 miles (61 km)
Total: 1,003 miles (1,614 km)

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