In Split: a photo gallery

October 14, 2020

Rachael and I have been astonished by our reaction to Split, a city we have avoided and in fact almost didn’t stay in at all. Under our original plan for the tour, we planned to pass through Split just long enough to arrange transportation back to Zagreb.

How wrong we were in this. Split is a wonderful city, beautiful and full of atmosphere. It is especially fine this fall when it is both so quiet and inexpensive, but I imagine it would be great in the spring or fall in a normal year, away from the hot and hectic months of the high season. It’s easy to imagine us making our way back here again some year, using it as a springboard into or out of Europe and as a way to extend a tour beyond the 90 day limit of stays in the Schengen zone.

The view from outside of our hotel is atmospheric regardless of the conditions out. It looked different and stirring every time we stepped out the door or returned to our room.

Just around the corner from our hotel, through the Silver Gate and outside the walls, is the Pazar green market. It’s open daily and starts setting up before 7. We passed through it on our way to morning coffee while wares and sellers were just arriving and setting up their stands. Neighboring coffee shops open at six, primarily to serve the sellers.

A fresh carcass arrives at the butcher shop.

The north wall of the palace, and the 4th century Golden Gate. At the time, the gate was for the use only of the Emperor and his family members.

The third statue of Juraj Dalmatinac stands outside the Golden Gate. The original, it is much larger than its replicas in Pag and Nin.

The exterior of the palace walls reflects their 1,700 year old history.

Returning to our hotel on a blustery evening.

The view through an arch of the Silver Gate.

The Cathedral of Saint Domnius. The octagonal building is the palace mausoleum, from the era of the Roman emperor. The bell tower’s origins date from the XIII century, but renovations are much more modern.

One of the pair of lions guarding the entrance to the cathedral.

The Peristil, the central meeting area of the palace, and since the VII century the cathedral square. The entrance to the cathedral is on the left, and at the far end is the city’s famous Egyptian sphinx.

This black granite Egyptian sphinx has perched on the edge of the Peristil and the cathedral for 1,700 years, when it was brought here by Diocletian. It is much older though - 3,000 years old, from the time of Pharoah Thutmose III.

Roman mosaics, in a secluded, out of the way corner near the cathedral.

The frieze above the baptistery (also known as the Temple of Jupiter) features images of Roman Gods.

A headless Egyptian sphinx, a companion to the one shown above, lies outside the baptistery. It was defaced by early Christians, who considered it a pagan icon. These two are the only survivors of the dozen sphinxes Diocletian brought to the palace.

The Vestibule, an original part of the palace at the entryway to the Peristil. Originally a domed structure, it was built as a meeting hall for distinguished visitors.

Outside the palace walls is Republic Square. It was created in the mid-19th century, with Saint Mark’s Square in Venice as its inspiration.

Along the waterfront in front of the palace is the Riva, the most important public space in the city. It dates in its present form back to the French occupation in the era of Napoleon.

Looking west along the waterfront. The green mass at the end is Marjan Forest Park.

The church and monastery of Saint Francis. Just behind it is the base of the Marjan Stairs, one of the primary entry points into the park.

Looking out from the waterfront. Slit lies on the mainland side of a large bay, almost completely protected by a ring of islands.

On our last day here we had lunch here on the Riva, filling the hours until time to head to the ferry.

Filippa, the manager of the Peristil Hotel. A wonderful hotel with a staff to match. If we ever return we’ll definitely stay here again.

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Lyle McLeodLooks like a very successful 'round 1' in Croatia. Hopefully 'round 2' in Italy works out just as well! The islands and whole Adriatic coast looks beautiful .... we are leaning towards a Eurovelo 8(ish) ride for next year ... your posts from this trip are tipping the odds towards EV 8.
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3 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Lyle McLeodIt was really a great experience. If you come, I’d really encourage you to do it as far off season as you can. Tourism in the islands really starts dropping off by early October.
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3 years ago