In Šibenik: a photo gallery - Balkan Dreams - CycleBlaze

October 9, 2020

In Šibenik: a photo gallery

What?    another rest day?  Team Anderson is mutating into Team Slug!

It’s true, but well justified.  Šibenik is a remarkable city and worth a day off to wander around and explore at a leisurely pace.  being road-weary has nothing to do with this, we can assure you.

As I said yesterday, Šibenik is one of my favorite cities.  I love its narrow, glistening white stone lanes and alleys that have a maze-like feel that make you think of an Arabic town in southern Spain.  When we first arrived and walked out to dinner yesterday, I had the same reaction I’d had two years ago - how does anyone keep their bearings and find their way around this place?  It feels at first like you’d have to live here a long time to learn your way around.  That’s not really the case though.  By our second day here I was feeling guardedly comfortable that I could find my way back and forth between the waterfront and our apartment.

On the other hand, I wouldn’t want to live here.  It’s a spectacular spot to lay over for a day or two, but it’s hardly what I would call bike friendly.  So many of its streets are broken up by staircases and uneven surfaces that it must be hard just making your way around town; and there really aren’t many good riding options from here once you leave the city either.  

Perfect for a two day visit: arrive, take a day off to walk around town, and then move on.

People do ride bikes here, but it’s really a town best explored on foot.
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As an example, this typical street through the old city doesn’t feel too bike-friendly.
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Hers my picture of what life in Šibenik would be like.
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As usual, Rachael and I went our own way to explore the town.  Rachael planned a more energetic walk, intending to hike along the waterfront to the opposite side of the bay.  She turned back short though when the route took her through an unappealing industrial zone, and returned to the room for a nap instead.  While she was doing that, I poked around the old city and then climbed up to Saint Michael’s fortress to take in the spectacular views over the city.

In the afternoon we both went out a second time.  On my recommendation, Rachael went up to Saint Michael’s fortress herself and then continued beyond that to Barones fortress; while I made good use of my time by walking down to a waterfront bar to enjoy a beer and the ambience.

In old Šibenik. The neighborhood is a mix of streets broken up by stairwells and ones without stairs that are suitable for bikes and scooters. A few of the wider streets can also accommodate small cars, but I only saw one in the whole time we were here.
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The 12th century church of Saint Chrysostom, the oldest preserved religious structure in the city.
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In Šibenik.
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In Šibenik.
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In Šibenik.
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The Church of Saint Barbara.
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The Church of Saint Barbara.
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Šibenik‘s most important monument: the Cathedral of Saint James. It’s regarded as the most important renaissance monument in the country, and is on the UNESCO world heritage list.
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The facade of the Cathedral of Saint James. The structure is noteworthy for being constructed completely of stone - primarily limestone from nearby quarries and the island of Brač.
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The cathedral is also noteworthy for being an early example of construction from prefabricated components.
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Detail from the cathedral’s portal.
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Šibenik Is not the easiest city to navigate.
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In Šibenik.
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The bell tower of the Church of Saint Ivan.
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In Šibenik.
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A two-legged sheep, demonstrating impressive core strength.
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Jen GrumbyThe sheep looks pretty confident just standing there, but what would it be like for it to go up and down all those stairs?

Core strength may not be sufficient (?)
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2 weeks ago
I didn’t take note of what church this is. I was mostly taken by its impressive collection of pigeons.
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The fortress of Saint Michael, one of four fortresses built to protect the city from Turkish invasion.
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The Barones fortress, from Saint Michael’s fortress.
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The exit to the Adriatic. Šibenik sits on a bay at the mouth of the Krka River. Vessels can navigate from here up-channel to Skradin.
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The view up the bay. Skradin is around the bend to the right, perhaps ten miles past that bridge.
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The Šibenik Cathedral, from Saint Michael’s fortress.
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We walked down to the waterfront for dinner, enjoying our meal as we took in the modest passagio and the sunset.  As usual, we were almost the only diners in the restaurant.  It was a lovely evening, but a bit chilly and breezy by the end.  We’re running down the days when we can comfortably dine outdoors this autumn. 

In Šibenik.
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Here’s that unidentified church again, sans pigeons.
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Juraj Dalmatinac, one of the principal designers of the cathedral. Also of the urban layout of Pag, where we also saw his statue last week.
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The Šibenik Cathedral.
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The side portal of the cathedral features two lion statues supporting pillars with sculptures of Adam and Eve.
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