Looking back on the last five weeks, I’d say that every place we’ve stayed has it’s own unique character, and is not a place you’d confuse with any other. That’s one of the delights of old Europe, of course.
That said, Cres really stands apart for its individuality. I can’t think of any place at all like it. Oddly enough, the place that keeps coming to mind is Venice, at least as we experienced it almost 30 years ago when it wasn’t so glutted by overtourism. It’s an unlikely comparison of course, but the common thread for me is the silence. You just can’t overstate what a difference it makes to get the cars out of the picture. I don’t think there’s a street open to cars within three or four blocks in any direction from the old town harbor - far enough away that I’ve never heard one there ever since we arrived. Instead, we hear the sounds of conversation, of water lapping against the harbor walls, of pennants flapping in the wind, of the whir of bicycles. It’s so peaceful!
The heart of the old town is its minuscule harbor, separated off from the larger inlet by a breakwater with a slender navigable gap, just wide enough for the small fishing boats characteristic of the town to slip in and out.
This gives a good sense of scale. We’re standing here on the breakwater, looking into the old town.
Here’s a view along the breakwater. To the right is a terminal where somewhat larger vessels can moor, more or less a like a small ferry dock. Anything really large moors at the marina about a mile away.
The harbor is lined on three sides with colorful pastel buildings, shops, and restaurants. It’s quite scenic and appealing in almost any direction you look.
These boats are pasaras, the traditional small boat of these islands. There’s an information panel nearby that that identifies and dates some of the older ones, including all these moored here. CD1079 was built in 1931, CS1042 in 1961, and CS23 in 1963. It’s like an outdoor wooden boat museum.
The Venetian clock tower and the main gate to the city are remnants of the Venetian age. It’s hard to envision now, but the town was at that time a fortified walled city.
This photograph shocked me at first when I compared it to the one above. It’s the same clock, but taken at sundown when the reflected light turned the azure tiles golden.
Luna Rossa, a bike friendly waterfront Italian restaurant. It is typical for people to bike along the narrow waterfront walkway, running errands or just out for a relaxed spin. You have to pay attention when you’re walking and keep to your lane.
This was interesting. The EU designated Rijeka a Capital of Culture for 2020. This program designates a different city or two every year, and provides support to further their profile, strengthen their culture and identity, and boost tourism. Today, the program includes activities set in Cres. There are presentations, events, and displays throughout the old town.
This is a demonstration for Rijeka 2020. It honors the heritage of washer women and perhaps garment makers from the town’s past. To the right is a gallery of old photographs on the same subject.
The video below is also part of the Rijeka 2020 program. As a guided procession of participants paraded through town, they passed this spot where a female sextet sang an a capella number in the traditional style of the town. I’m sorry I didn’t capture more of it, but I was late to the show.
Rate this entry's writing
Heart
8
Comment on this entry
Comment
2
Jen RahnI love your description of what you hear in the absence of motor vehicles.
And the images you've captured ... What a place! The small boats, narrow passageways, and beautiful array of colors, and the cat(!) all made me feel like you were walking through a storybook. Reply to this comment 3 years ago
