Sep 16 - Komarom to Esztergom via Slovakia: The most beautiful city yet - Meandering the Donau/Duna (Tour 12) - 2011 🇭🇺 🇸🇰 🇦🇹

September 16, 2011

Sep 16 - Komarom to Esztergom via Slovakia: The most beautiful city yet

Hotel: Alabardos Panzio 16,000 Ft

AGAIN, it was hard to get going this morning but after checking messages, down we went for breakfast of ham, eggs and bread. Not so great today.

We loaded up in a coolish morning that was cloudy. It must have been 15°C or so so I should almost have had a jacket but as soon as I was on the bike pedaling I was warm enough.

Up over the bridge into Slovakia we went. We looked for gifts in the pretty square then rode around the old fortress as we searched for the second path over the river and to the bike path along the levee. The riding was nice though it was along two gravel tracks for about 10 km in almost misty conditions. And ahhh so quiet!

As we got to the road portion a single cycle tourist went by. Though we never stopped to chat, we leap-frogged each other a few times. Then further along we came upon a man and a woman cycle-touring from Strasbourg to Budapest. About 55-60 km per day, they were camping some but mostly B&B. I chatted with them in french a bit then off we all went.

Rather than cross into Hungary we first ate lunch on the Slovakian side where I picked up some trinkets for gifts at home. We just relaxed knowing that our next stop was one or two kilometres away on the other side of the Donau.

Back on our bikes we rolled to the boardwalk where our mouths fell open. Basilica. Fortress. Up on the mountain with the Donau winding its way along below. Wow, Bob, wow!

We crossed the bridge then started to look for somewhere to stay. Around a few beautiful corners we found this one and were shown a room in the top floor (#10) and it was beautiful with a beautiful view up to the basilica and down into the twisted streets of the town. And it included breakfast.

We each showered and washed up then went for a walk up to the Basilica. What beauty. We could see bends in the Danube in both directions and the Basilica's dome was immense. What an incredible spot. The only sad part is that much of the old fortress must have been destroyed to make way for the construction of the Basilica. We went for paprika chicken just down the hill and had Weissbier with lemon which convinced me to make another batch soon.

I expected lights to come on to light up the mountain and Basilica but no. So much for incredible night AP's. Instead we walked down to the Danube for some shots of the bridge and a bateau-mouche that came along. What a nice trip that would be!

It was fairly dark out otherwise, so we returned to the room to check messages and just relax.

Riding along the Danube levee was quiet and traffic-less.

Roman ruins - this used to be the border of the Roman empire.

Arriving to our destination - and what a place!

Our guest house just up the hill from the churches.

Little Bear has emerged. He is sitting on my Arkel EX-R panniers. They have the newer bracket which has a few improvements over the older ones. The clips are plastic-covered so they don't gouge the crap out of your rack. There are little spring-loaded cogs (?) that hold the pannier on the rack and WILL NOT let it come off and yet when you pull the strap, they come right off. Once again, I cannot say how happy I was with Arkel. We have a number of sets of different models, and even our kids have the pannier/backpack version which are great for them. Our kids are pro-Arkel, too! As always, just a note that I have no connection with Arkel - simply a really pleased customer encouraging others to try a great Canadian-based company that, in my opinion, make a superb product.

From the basilica looking down over the bend in the Danube in the direction from which we had come.

Across the valley to the church up behind our guest house.

A cruise boat by night in a long exposure leads to these streaks in the photo. Definite AP.

Today's ride: 61 km (38 miles)
Total: 292 km (181 miles)

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