A weekend in Dufur: Summit Ridge

July 6, 2019

So there was no family gathering to celebrate mom’s birthday after all. I haven’t mentioned it before, but mom has had a rough couple of months and has a few medical procedures coming up - including one on Tuesday, just three days after her birthday. After growing increasingly stressed, she and dad finally realized that a large dinner party was a mistake and called it off - she’s not feeling that well anyway, and being exposed to everyone’s germs three days before she goes into the hospital didn’t feel wise to them.

This, and the fact that dad’s birthday earlier this year was also almost called off at the last minute, makes me think that the era of large family gatherings with mom and dad may be drawing to a close. It might work better if we see them more casually in the future.

In any case, we’re suddenly faced with an unexpected gap in our calendar. Friday night is our last one in our current Airbnb, and we don’t move on to our next one until Monday. With no commitments and no place to stay, we check weather reports to see where we might go to find decent cycling weather and decide on Dufur. It’s normally too hot for our comfort in summer here, but the next few days look windy (normal for this area) but unusually mild for this time of year.

We’ve never stayed in Dufur, a small farming town on the other side of Mount Hood about fifteen miles south of The Dalles. We’ve certainly passed through it often enough though - it’s in the heart of one of our favorite cycling regions in Oregon. There is a hotel open in town now - the historic Balch Hotel, which was restored and reopened a few years ago, and which we've wondered about the last few times we’ve biked through town. Coincidentally, Bruce and I were just talking about this hotel last week when we met for coffee; so it was fresh in my mind.

We’re concerned for mom of course, but the whole household is excited about the new plans for the weekend. When they hear the news, the Straggler, Rodriguez and Old Paint raise a joyous shout: Road trip!!

We get an early start, happily vacating our apartment (a nice enough place, but for a number of reasons this one didn’t really work well for us) by about seven thirty. Surprisingly it is lightly raining when we leave Portland, and the rain intensifies as we drive east toward Mount Hood. By the time we near Cascade Locks though we leave the rain behind and not long afterwards are in Hood River, stopping in at the bagel shop to pick up lunch. This is a bit of a tradition when we come over here - it’s a great bagel shop, with a good selection of bagels and fillings. We leave with two cinnamon raisin bagels with peanut butter for me (I had a light breakfast and start eating one as we drive off) and Rachael has an asiago cheese one with hummus that she will rave about later when we picnic by the side of the road.

Forty five minutes later we pull into the parking lot of the Balch Hotel, unload Rodriguez and the Straddler, and hit the road for the first of the three day rides we have planned for the weekend.

I’m always confused coming here - the door on the right, or the left?

In this day and age, we really appreciate inclusive establishments like this.

The Jedda is delighted to get out of town again, and loves the drive up the gorge. We’re really grateful to Bruce and Andrea for taking such good care of him while we’re away.

Today’s ride is a hilly loop to the west of town, gradually rising up to the summit of Central Ridge before dropping back down to Emerson Loop and circling back to Dufur. I’d forgotten that it was here exactly but Rachael and I rode across Central Ridge once a few years ago, going in the reverse direction. Since I’d forgotten that it was this road, I didn’t realize that the road involves roughly ten miles of dirt. I had scoured the satellite view of the route pretty carefully in planning this ride, and so I’m pretty surprised when the pavement abruptly ends about fifteen miles into the ride.

It’s not bad though - it’s a reasonably good surface and a fairly comfortable ride on these bikes. It makes it a slower and more challenging ride though, and the winds definitely add to it - for much of the day we were biking with 25 mph winds, strong enough to make your spokes sing and to deafen you a bit after a few hours of the constant roar. We are both feeling the day by the time we made it back to Dufur, and are happy to stop in for cold drinks at Kramer’s Store before checking in to the hotel.

Still, it was a fantastic ride - this is the most beautiful cycling country. Massive views, gorgeous fields of grain, and absolutely quiet except for the roaring wind - in one two hour stretch we only saw a single car. It’s wonderful to get a few days over here again.

Leaving Dufur, looking back west at its grain silos and the mountain.

Another mile east, and I stop for a last look back toward Dufur.

At the junction with Long Hollow Market Road. We turn south (right) here, and gradually climb through the hollow for the next seven miles.

Looking back toward Mount Hood from Long Hollow Market Road.

Rachael patiently waits for me at the junction with Center Ridge Road. I was concerned when I saw her waiting out in the full sun, but it’s actually quite cool up here at 3,000’ with these strong winds. Almost cool enough to add a layer.

Black locust, the predominant tree planting near the houses here.

Center Ridge schoolhouse, near the summit. What an amazing spot for a schoolhouse though. Looking around now, there’s hardly another structure in sight.

Sorry, pard. I thought the whole route was paved - honest!

Looking back toward Mount Hood from Center Ridge Road.

Nice to get a bit of company here. We haven’t seen another soul in over an hour.

Looking north across the basin and into Washington.

Dropping off the north side of Summit Ridge on Wrentham Market Road. The long ridge straight ahead is Goodnoe Hills, about thirty miles off and in Washington.

Finally back on the pavement after ten miles, but still dropping - slowly, because the headwind is so strong.

Along Wrentham Market Road, and still dropping. What an awesome ride!

On Emerson Loop Road, heading east again and back toward Dufur.

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Ride stats today: 38 miles, 3,200’

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Jen RahnSorry to hear your mom isn't up for the big celebration.

Glad, though, that it opened up an opportunity for a beautiful ride!
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4 years ago

Ron SuchanekNice! It’s certainly beautiful up there. I did a loop in that area in 2016 called the Oregon Stampede, which began and ended at the mouth of the Deschutes and went through Dufur, Tygh Valley and Grass Valley.
It’s hot and windy up there, but excellent riding.
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4 years ago

Scott AndersonTo Ron SuchanekIt’s not always hot and windy, but there is a common thread. It can be mild and windy, or cold and windy too. It’s always memorable though.
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4 years ago